The meal started with a series of canapés including crab tacos with mayonnaise and Granny Smith apple and pale ale crustades with a delightful Berkswell cheese and onion ketchup inside.  Whilst the sourdough was more brown breadlike in its boule form, it was a good vehicle for the sensational butter that was subsequently hoovered up very quickly.

The table tried as many dishes as possible.  First up on the starters was Chalk Stream trout, golden beetroot tartare with an elderflower and sour cream on top which was a great, new combination not had before and worked very well.  The Devon smoked eel and tenderstem broccoli had a delightfully light preserved lemon foam around and the eel held a very good balance of saltiness.  

The aged striploin tartare was another very good starter served with red pepper, orange and a glorious pine nut oil with a few pine nuts as well; this was a brilliant version of tartare for flavour combinations and nicely diced.  Monkfish came with cocoa pod glaze, a lovely Jamón butter sauce and maitake mushroom – the Monkfish itself was cooked perfectly with a lovely, crisp exterior.  In short I thought all starters were actually all knock out and a very good intro to the meal.  An interlude course of Sea bass came with a smoked Espelette butter sauce and cocoa bean cassoulet which was very enjoyable, with quite a strong kick of espellette for two of the diners; perhaps if this was toned down even more it may be even more of a delicate dish.

The mains chosen were very tender Iberico pressa, artichoke, king oyster mushroom.  The meat was melt in the mouth and the accompanying jus was deep and rich. Guinea hen, with thin and crispy skin, parsnip, black truffle likewise came with a superb jus that made the dish.  Hereford cote de boeuf for two, came with a Béarnaise sauce, oak leaf and Lollo Rosso salad which was a very welcome bit of veg that was also a lovely salad with dill and garlic cream and dried onion sprinkled on top.  The beef itself didn’t create fireworks in comparison to other cuts enjoyed at other options experienced at places such as Smith and Wollensky or The Cut at 45 Park Lane, but was cooked perfectly and came with a very generous helping of béarnaise.  All was served with boulangère potatoes to share which is always a lovely touch for a table and looked very pretty.  No skimming on the portion size here and the caramelised onions provided much sweetness.  

The desserts were a pleasant mix. Coffee and Manjari delice with macadamia and coffee liqueur was a creative dish with snow-like textures.  I thought the miso and brown sugar brulee was sensational made with mandarin and excellent gingerbread pieces.  The custard was beautifully set with delicate sugar roof and a wonderful flavour combination with the miso and the lightly gingered bread pieces.  The Colston Bassett, Pink Lady apple tarte tatin with lemon verbena was a fun dish to combine blue cheese with a dessert albeit being a little out of kilter.  Cheese will always be good with a selection of sweet chutneys, fruit or sauterne jelly, so no issues with the two being together, but it was a little unclear whether they were to be combined fully or had separately (the blue cheese being quite overpowering for the available sweet) however, it was a fun and new dish. 

Petit fours included passion fruit and misu macron along with hazelnut and chocolate chocolates.  Such is the family orientated homeliness of Hampton Manor, we were ushered to having these by the fire in the main Manor drawing room which is also where we enjoyed a lovely welcome glass of sparkling wine when we arrived for staying over.  This is such a simple and effective touch.  Smoke is a short walk away from the Manor House, as is Grace and Favour, the latter having its own accommodation.

All in all, Smoke is a lovely and originally rustic restaurant with some quality dishes.  I would recommend staying over at Hampton Manor if you are driving a distance to get to the restaurant as this is likewise a lovely place to stay as well – a spot of electric charging wouldn’t go a miss for a 5 star hotel, but then again I would say this driving one! I will be very happy to come back and try Smoke again in a different season.

Food Grade: 74%

First up, the interior is a converted pub in tasteful and very homely decor.  On entering, my group felt right at home, the feel was utterly unpretentious and I was delighted to discover it is a husband and wife team (Tim in the kitchen literally on his own with Kitchen Porter assistant) and his wife on front of house and in the restaurant.  Amazingly, they were able to accommodate my group of 8 guests after the British Open being held in Liverpool for 2023.

The set lunch meal was a staggering £45 per head for this special, no choice menu for this size of group, but the normal menu is still an incredible £42.50 for 3 courses.  This is frankly outstanding value for money when having food of the quality.  When I return (which I am already planning), I will definitely be staying over somewhere so that I/we can enjoy the full tasting menu at £95.

Our meal started with some of the best focaccia I have ever had in my life and dare I say, I think it even may be a fraction better than the beloved Sportsman, in its outstanding lightness and crust appeal made with its own butter.  Next came a construction of tomatoes with tomato consommé with yuzu sourdough, Parmesan and Iberica ham.  The consommé was utterly transparent, light, with good flavour to compliment the  sumptuous, peeled tomatoes and the lightly cooked sour dough had the perfect crunch (not too oily) with befitting parmesan and ham to accompany all.  Cornish cod was next which came with aerated eel dashi, horseradish, a lovely, smoked Pike roe and nori seaweed.  This all came together beautifully, the roe not too salty, the dish again light in feel and went down extremely quickly.

The meat here comes from the nearby Butcher Fowl Emporium and the meat dish was a maple toffee pork with English peas, truffle ‘snow’ and puffed potatoes.  Delicate is not the word.  The whole table was again blown away how the wonderful pork had been cooked and balanced with the maple sweetness which was not too sticky or sweet as can very often be the case, but at the perfect level.  My group of Singaporean dining companions are somewhat used to meat with an Asian twist, to the extent that anything less than excellent is immediately picked up on – the entire table gave this dish a resounding thumbs up on its handling and wonderful flavour (as did I, especially the sublime texture of the pork) which is probably the biggest compliment to gain from the tough dining crowd.

Cumbrian Duck came with fermented cherries, Scottish girolles, green pepper and sweetcorn.  I was initially concerned about the use of sweetcorn as can sometimes be almost too sweet when combined with other sweet aspects, but again, the fermented cherry had toned this down and the portion size of sweetcorn and all to accompany the superb duck was just right.  Another, carefully conceived and executed dish, gaining empty plates across the board.

The dessert was a triumph.  Lemken Strawberries were served with a vanilla ‘fresher’, garden lemon verbena and meringue shards that resembled the delicacy of my dessert at 3 Michelin starred Zen in Singapore.  This was perfectly light, sweet, refreshing and gorgeous in one.  In a final twist, as the chef knew that we had been enjoying the golf at the British open, the lemon verbena soft cream sphere was presented as a golf ball in a lovely touch for the group. A stunning dessert.

If that wasn’t enough, I was delighted to see that coffee was sourced from Difference coffee, one of the finest coffee producers in the world that only supply their coffee to chosen venues (the Yellow Bourbon being wonderfully full in body but lightly citrusy at the same time) and was the perfect finish with chocolate truffles that were pure velvet inside.  The conclusion was that everyone was sated yet not bloated and frankly, there was nothing that everyone did not enjoy – a huge hit rate.

As mentioned, I cannot speak more highly of this venue and for all the reasons above it is my firm recommendation that you try this venue if you are passing through anywhere near Liverpool or the surrounding counties.  This was the best meal from Tim Allen I have had to date, is easily one of the strongest 1 Michelin starred venues I have enjoyed.  I am frankly excited for the potential of where this could go.

Food Grade: 86%

The restaurant is split between two levels with the ground floor affording seating for 20 covers to give an idea of space. Hospitality was immediately accommodating and each waiting staff were very knowledgeable on the dishes which is always a good sign in any restaurant.  I also liked the rather nice touch of simply scanning a QR code to gain wifi connection without a password (rather a bonus when dining on one’s own).  The stained glass that adorns the front of the dining room is rather impressive and was sorry to have run out of time to not have a peak at the upstairs on this visit – another reason to return.

On to the snacks, a savoury gougere with 60 month-aged Parmesan cheese, black garlic and honey  was a fantastic start.  The choux pastry was warm and with good crunch on the outside, bursting with lovely, soft cheese and had lovely texture and flavour all round.  Next up came a pale ale croustade with Brixham mackerel, pear, pear gel, shiso gel and shiso garnish.  The croustade had a delightfully light crunch in texture but I was not hugely convinced by the combination of the smoke (from part of the mackerel preparation) and pear as an unusual coupling.  I love pear and I love mackerel, but didn’t quite fit with their pairing (personally I have found mackerel to be better paired with rhubarb or fruits / lightly pickled vegetables but this may just be me).  

The first amuse bouche of asparagus with a savoury custard, wild garlic oil, green asparagus from  Abington, Iberica ham and asparagus foam was an absolute knock out on the other hand.  I have lost count how many foams I have had that have had absolutely zero flavour, but this was one of the rare foams that actually did, with very good asparagus flavour. The warming, subtle, flavour and texture of the savoury custard combined with the delicate feel all round made this an outstanding introductory offering to enjoy.

Home made Brioche, laminated with 24 layers was extremely good and served with whipped cultured dairy butter from Ampersand in Oxfordshire with a chicken liver parfait.  The parfait  was deep with red wine in flavour and the butter was extremely good.  My only observation here was that it was quite butter intense even for me as a butter lover – as the brioche already had 24 layers of butter, I felt the menu could afford to have another or choice of a less buttery sour dough or simple grain roll to allow the butter to be enjoyed more fully without overdosing on butter, but this is a small point.

Another amuse bouche was afforded with Chalk Stream trout (a slightly less impressive fish to the heights of wild, Scottish salmon), ponzu and yuzu dressing, pickled cucumber balls, mooli radish, habanero, cucumber sorbet and coriander oil.  This was a fresh dish indeed but it packed a strong punch of the habanero which even the sorbet could not quite cool.  As nice as parts of the dish were, the overarching impression was the heat which dominated everything else, which was surprising.

The starter was Newlyn cod, brassicas, dill, anchovy; lightly cured and steamed, romanesco, purple spiriting broccoli, broccoli purée, crispy kale, mint and lemon gel, boquerones pieces (Spanish anchovies), dill and mustard beurre-blanc sauce with dill and seaweed oil drops. This had beautiful balance of sweet from the lemon gel and lightly pickled turnip (pickled in Chardonnay vinegar), to assist the rich sauce, dill and seaweed.  There was also a lovely touch and texture from the crispy kale and blow-torched romanesco. The tiny pieces of Spanish anchovies added pleasant seasoning of salt and seafood essence and these were all lovely elements to grace the simple cod which was also perfectly soft and flakey.

The main was 50 day salt-aged Waterford Farm beef (Sirloin and braised ox cheek) with asparagus from Great Abington again, (barbecued and then brushed with beef fat), celeriac purée and morels done three ways – diced, as a ketchup and as a powder; asparagus spears, sauce Bordelaise using  additional pickled mustard seeds and capers.  Now, this was a particularly good ox cheek and the dish had beautiful components all working well together, with the only aspect being not my favourite was the actual Sirloin which was quite tough and with a subtle flavour. The surrounding sauces, purees and additional elements were basically the highlights above the main component.

A pre-dessert of yoghurt sorbet topped with steamed Swiss (soft) meringue was hollowed with a elderflower jelly covered with a thin lemon jelly sheet of apple-marigold oil, Amalfi lemon and then decorated with almond granita.  This was certainly a palate cleanser no doubt with quite sharp tartness of lemon sorbet and large quantity of the granita.  The chocolate  dessert however was as smooth as they come.  This was a Valrhona Araguani, ganache (from Venezuela) with a hazelnut mousse, salted milk ice cream, frangipane base, caramelised banana gel in centre, mushroom infused shortbread and shaved Australian winter truffle on top.  This was an entirely elegant and silky, salted chocolate dessert and overall, very pleasant way to finish of the meal.  Although I did not have coffee, this appeared appealing from the Brew Project company along with choice petit fours which were boxed up for me in another very nice touch as I needed to hit the road.

There is a lot to like about this restaurant and I would say its craftsmanship is certainly at Michelin starred level however with one or two tweaks I would have wished for on this menu in terms of sourcing or dosage.  It is a homely and hospitable venue in a charming setting and the effort gone in to the menu is clear to see.  I will come back another time to try a fuller menu.

Unlike many starred restaurants where the bread is included, here the sour dough from Dusty Knuckle was priced as an extra but good nevertheless and served with olive oil.  Parmesan fries were more waffle in texture with soft cheese running all the way through and whilst these are termed as a snack on the menu, you could seriously have this as a starter such is the generous portion size,  Basically, if you have this, I don’t think you will need to have a starter, but that is just a friendly heads up.

My starter of mezzi pacchieri with marinda tomatoes, olives, capers and ricotta salata was deep in tomato flavour, heightened by the olive which thankfully did not make it too ‘olivey’.  I also enjoyed the crispy herbs on top.  My guest went straight for a main which was the fillet of lamb with jersey royals, wild garlic and salsa verde and this was reported as extremely good – it certainly seemed to have a generous portion size of lamb on for the set menu price.  My main of Scottish halibut, celeriac, slow roasted garlic and smoked eel was a fresh and cooked well albeit, halibut not actually being my absolute favourite (on account of being strangely dry in its flakiness somehow).  The supporting jus however was extremely good and the dish as a whole was very good.

Both desserts were tried.  Tiramisù clearly had to be tried as an Italian classic and held a good mascarpone but perhaps a little too much cream in comparison to the former and soaked biscuit.  I had more food envy over my guest’s pannacotta with mini doughnuts (yoghurt and vanilla pannacotta, yorkshire rhubarb and beignet), so much so that I am actually looking forward to trying this next time I am in.

Although the opening bar area is quite snug, the service all round was attentive and seemed happy in the main which is a nice change from venues that feel overstretched or under strain – it’s a pleasure to be in the hands of those that are in calm, control as always. The fact that Luca is literally a 3-4 minute walk at the most from the Elizabeth Line (Farringdon) station, with its very reasonable menu and the atmospheric buzz that seemed to be in full swing on this visit, means that whilst it is not the highest scoring option on my list, it is the another perfect example of how best is different from favourite, which, for all the reasons above, is where this restaurant could be headed for me.

Food Grade: 73%

To start, the cheese gougere with parmesan was a good opening – it had a crispy exterior and a nicely soft interior with good cheese flavour. The white bean espuma with chicken skin and burnt onion was also a good canapé. The espuma was light and airy, while the chicken skin added a satisfying crunch.

For the next course, a liquid pea ravioli with sage, Serrano ham and parmesan emulsion was a highlight. The pasta was perfectly cooked and the flavors of the filling and the emulsion complemented each other perfectly. The pollack dish was another standout – the nori seaweed and langoustine mousse, along with the trout roe and supplemented Perigord truffle, made for a dish that was both sweet and savory. Notable was the strength of aroma on the truffle which some of the very best restaurants in the country have not matched in my experience.

The lamb dish was equally enjoyable, featuring tender meat that had been dry-aged for 10 days and roasted in its own fat. The accompanying salsa verde, leaks, and wild garlic added a nice depth of flavor, while the lamb sauce with cumin tied everything together.  The cumin was a brilliant flavour combination not had with lamb before.

For dessert, the different textures of apple was an interesting dish to end the meal. The apple sorbet, compote, and espuma provided a range of textures and flavors that made for a refreshing dessert . However, I did find the lumps of iced elements on top made from liquid nitrogen too large as they were extremely cold in the mouth and the pastry disc a little bitter and hard (took a lot of strength to break it) indicating it might have been  over done.  Even if this was intentional, the dessert was overall pleasant but not my favourite part of the meal.  The petit fours of cherry white chocolate was also a standout, (cherries and white chocolate being a classic pairing that never gets old) in a gentle shell of white chocolate and liquid cherry centre as well as the hot chocolate fondant was the perfect ending to the meal – rich, decadent, and delicious.

Overall, this was a great lunch to enjoy.  The quality of the ingredients and the skill of the chefs evident from both James and his daughter as the sous chef (Georgia).  Initially I wasn’t so sure about the lack of sunlight in the restaurant with all of the curtains drawn as looked a little encaged at first, but I ended up liking the fact that it helped with the acoustics as an intimate space and I understood the cosy, privacy this created as a result.  The value for money as well as the personable touch from the Sommerins chatting with the tables as well as overall level of the food makes for a very attractive option.

Food Grade: 78%

To start, the Pecorino and polenta fritta with truffle emulsion was a lovely bite that set the bar high. While I found it to be a tad too salty, the Cheese biscuit with Tunworth and Camembert cheese custard, onion gel, onion jelly, onion power and wild garlic was a very good. The powerful cheese and delightful umami were a pleasure to begin the meal. The crustard of Yellow fin tuna, ponzu dressing, dashi gel, soya emulsion, and bonito flakes was another dish that left a lasting impression. The quality and flavor of the tuna were top-notch, although sadly, I found was a touch too salty as well.

Moving on to the opening amuse bouche, the cauliflower with Maitake mushroom, smoke-roasted cauliflower purée, crumble and pickled mushroom ketchup was a welcome vegetarian dish that really delivered on both flavor and texture. The umami and smoke flavors were well-balanced, the foam being indulgently rich but was also a little salty for my taste. Nothing devastating with these opening bites, but I did think reducing the salt content by any percentage here would be worthwhile.

The fillet of plaice with Champagne veloute, leek, dill, leak purée crispy leaks and Sicilian lemon condiment was an absolute triumph. The balance of flavors was impeccable, with a good streak of lemon running throughout to offset the buttery loveliness. And to top it all off, a glass of Riesling recommended by the sommelier proved to be the perfect pairing. This was a very good dish.

The Wooley Park Farm pork with onion, black garlic, potato and chive was a standout main that truly hit the spot. The tenderloin pan-roasted and rolled in burnt onion, smoked cheek, bbq spring onion, pickled petals, black garlic ketchup and turnip purée were all executed beautifully and complemented each other with ease. Actually one of the loveliest components was the mustard seed overlay with the pork – a superb dish overall.

I opted for the additional cheese course for an additional £9 which consisted of Colston Bassett creamy blue cheese from Nottinghamshire with Pain au fig, walnut, fig, black walnut ketchup, seedless grapes, frisée lettuce and mustard vinaigrette.  This was an imaginative way to enjoy a cheese course although rather sadly the pastry was extremely dense and appeared overdone and hard on the underside, but held a good combination for the cheese above.  The éclair dessert of baked & compresses pink lady apple, buttermilk, caramel vanilla butter butter scotch sauce and whipped chocolate ganache was a lovely finish, plain and simple.  

On a miscellaneous note the water topping up was professionally done and attentive throughout, led by the General Manager Anthony and my very knowledgeable waitress Flo. It is a very slick operation here in a restaurant that looks equally so whilst being homely with some very good dishes.  The points I noted were mainly on final, finesse, but I can tell there is far greater calibre here and would be very happy to come back to try the main menu whenever possible.

Food Grade: 75%