The meal started with some delightful cheese gourgeres that had velvety and soft fillings and pea mini tartlets that had delightfully brittle pastry cases and fresh pea flavour. Both enjoyable pleasantries to begin with although the table did agree that slightly warmer gougeres without the parmesan shavings on top (if the removal of the parmesan cheese helped with this).

I started with green asparagus, lovage emulsion, quail egg & goats curd which was a genuine pleasure.  The quail eggs added richness, the asparagus itself being as fresh as one could expect from the season and fact it was grown in their own gardens and decorated with visually and texturally pleasing pastry crisps on top.  Next was native lobster, spiced carrot, coriander & bisque, the bisque having good depth and the sliced carrot in particular, working very well with the lobster.

For the main, I opted for the Cumbrian lamb, roasted onion, garlic scapes & allium flowers which all worked together as well as these timeless combinations have done.  The garlic puree and allium notes all round were suitably toned down to allow the (good quality) lamb be the main part to enjoy.

Dessert was strawberry, blueberry, meringue & verbena and although quite a simple dessert, the key being that the strawberries were wonderful and the meringue just at the right thickness to properly enjoy and compliment all.  The petit fours that followed were all pleasurable and well made and this all made for an entirely agreeable meal.

Speaking with the executive chef at the end was a definite privilege that I am conscious that most might not receive however, it showed me: a) he was in and leading the service(!) which is not always the same in many other Michelin-starred venues I could cite, b) betterment was strived for at all times, seen in the huge effort recently to transform the restaurant from one side of the hotel to the other to afford the pleasurable view and c) I do like the way that the hotel and restaurant is not cashing in on its accolade by switching to overpriced, set tasting menus only, focussing on a reasonable menu that all can have several options – almost a rarity these days.  I would also add that if ever there was a place to enjoy a skillfully presented vegetarian menu, this will be a very good option to have up your sleeve.

I tried the salad of crown prince pumpkin with cow’s curd, cheese sablê, pumpkin seed and black truffle as I wanted to see their forte ability with such an expansive garden.  The only problem is that regrettably, my timing wasn’t brilliant being in the worst season for vegetable growth however, it’s always good to see how a renowned Michelin starred venue combats this.  I would say that with the ingredients available this was done just about as good as anyone could do with plump pumkin chunks, creamy cheese curd and truffle shavings to jazz things up and held together with the garnish.  The seeds worked well for texture and basically, it wasn’t a full-scale opera but not a bad thing at the same time.

Breads were warmed and presented very well and again, although plain in the majority, they were done well with good springiness all round.  Also tried was the starter of foie gras parfait with verjus, glazed walnut, orange and chicory.  This was somehow sent to the table without the brioche which had been forgotten and caused a wait in the proceedings.  Although these things happen and is not the end of the world, especially if both starters are cold, it was a surprise for this basic error to occur (at a Michelin starred restaurant) however, all was rectified with one baked and brought to the table as quickly as possible.  The parfait itself was set hard and quite tough to handle and although I liked the crunchy exterior, the flavour of the parfait just wasn’t to the same standard as that experienced at Dinner, The Cross or La Trompette for example.

Mains of lamb and selections of Newhaven fish fillets were more enjoyble.  The lamb had depth of flavour, both parts being utterly tender with a rather lovely potato terrine and supporting sauce / puree elements.  The selection of fish in bouillabaisse sauce was nicely done, the fish pieces being succulent and seared to good effect.  No negatives really, but similarly, no high fives caused at the same time.

Desserts however, were a very welcome notch upwards.  The mango crème brûlée was beautifully judged, with just the right sweetness and eggy consistency.  This had a superb ginger beer sorbet and was one of the nicest sorbets had.  Equally enjoyable was the white chocolate mousse with variations of apple, treacle and cinnamon crumb – these flavours were superb altogether and was the definition of harmony.  Tea and petit fours were enjoyed in one of the lounges opposite the fire place with a seemingly long wait for the bill.

So all in all a surprising mix of results but thankfully with some good moments and all being presented in a refined way.  I suppose I was simply hoping for a bit more ‘X’ factor.  The venue will serve as a wonderful haven for anyone needing to conduct a regain or gain points with their other half but for the more advanced diners there were easily areas to raise.  Very glad to have done it though and a tasting menu in the warmer months is the only way to be sure.

The menus are set menus only and I acknowledge the restaurant’s stance of the dinner menu obviously having potentially more of the signature plates.  That said, the four at the table I was with were very happy to be greeted with canapes of potato nutmeg and thyme with onion ketchup, aged Parmesan and chives.  Bread was homemade and included a stout and treacle sourdough and a sensationally flaky and delicate onion and thyme brioche.  The latter here really was excellent.

Beetroot with compressed beetroot slices, goats curd and yuzu granita was the first offering on this small menu and the compressed beetroot was balanced well by the goats curd with a tang of the yuzu granita.  Turbot from a 6kg fish came with champagne sauce, carabinero prawns and leek.  I mention the weight of the fish as the price for turbot rises exponentially the heavier it is (and is arguably more flavoursome the heavier and older it is) and therefore it is a good sign for me when restaurants are making this effort and also shows that you are being given good value for money (as you are here) as opposed to being served something inherently a lot cheaper and being smoke screened to being charged a minor fortune (see Club Gascon).  This was a genuinely pleasing dish – uncomplicated and well-executed. 

Next up for the main was Cumbria salt aged beef with Ox cheek bourguignon, potato puree and hen of the woods mushrooms.  Whilst this was quite a straight forward dish, the bourguignon sauce had deep flavour and it was actually nice to have traditionally, (slightly) lumpy mash which matched the traditional environment we were in.  The fillet itself was of good quality and all in all was all lapped up well.  

A blood orange chocolate and salted biscuit was a fair pre-dessert with no frills, but the stem ginger sponge cake gateaux with creme fraiche,  honey, ginger crisp, rhubarb sorbet and white chocolate was a masterstroke.  All four at the table were in immediate ingredient that this was the knock out blow and had changed a meal that was simmering as very pleasant to making the journey completely worthwhile in all regards.  Petit fours came as orange & bergamot tartlets with treacle, salted caramel chocolates and finally a stand-alone choux pastry with dulce custard inside which was another lovely surprise.  

Service was well-meaning but a little edgy overall.  As an example, the staff forget themselves at one point and had not put any cutlery on the table for one of the courses which was served – before anyone could say “enjoy”, they were prompted for eating utensils which is surprising for a restaurant at this level, but ultimately all things needed were corrected.  Pre-lunch drinks and wines by the glass meant the price of the meal per head sat at £85 per head which, for this meal was very good value.  I sense it will be wise to take the restaurant up on their recommendation to come back at some stage and dine in the evening for a greater experience, but this was certainly not a slouch at the same time, more like a gentle, satisfied smile.

On a miscellaneous note, the breakfast room is beautiful and where the more casual restaurant of the hotel is located and would be a worthy option to have lunch at when visiting in the summer when their pool is open.  Staying over revealed the four-star nature of the hotel rather than 5-star luxury in a few instances.  One being that our heater was not working and in spite of efforts to inform the staff in the evening, the message did either not get to the handyman or the latter had scarpered on our Sunday evening stay.  Miraculously, on Monday morning someone did appear and fixed the heater, just in time for check out.  Not a massive biggie as a portable heater was provided and we were grateful for a complimentary upgrade, but this didn’t seem to work well.

Another instance was the initial service from waiting staff at breakfast with limited rapport, a large language barrier that made ordering awkward and two items forgotten to be brought to the table.  Once again these were rectified in the end but just needed monitoring to be so.  In terms of the stay and our upgraded room (which was a kind offering from the reception), where the hotel could improve in my view is by making the non-16th Century elements such as the TV, frayed and very old wires for the TV, central heating and charging facilities better.  It is an absolutely charming hotel, steeped in history, but numerous mod-cons appear to be quite dated now.  I, therefore, recommend preparing to step back in time a little when staying over and enjoy the heritage of the rooms rather than modern comforts.  On a very positive note, the beds here are absolutely top draw with huge cotton thread count sheets, wonderful down pillows and superb mattresses.

On another completely separate and lovely bonus note, there were also Tesla Destination chargers at the hotel car park for EV and Tesla drivers.  This meant that during the stay, the Model 3 received free fuel of its own and was fully charged to the brim (100%) from during the day and overnight charging especially as these are 22Kwh Tesla Destination chargers 9It was actually fully charged before the evening).  Rather brilliant of the restaurant/hotel to include this.  What most may not know is that the actual cost for the electricity is very cheap, but the equivalent in petrol would be around £70 of fuel for the miles gained in recharging during the stay (about the price I used to cough up to fill up in the Z4 fully) – c’est Magnifique!

When the sun has come back to the UK, I will make best efforts to come again to The Tudor Room.  In the meantime, this was a very reasonable package all round and with the benefit of competent cooking on arrival.  Normally I average the scores of all visits in the food grade, but this is when a head chef has remained in place.  For restaurants with new teams/head chefs, the average (and main score) starts again.  Whilst this may be lower than some, it’s clear to me that there is more here in the food and I look forward to experiencing this another time.

Here, Douglas Balish (formerly of the 2 Michelin starred Whatley Manor) displayed a menu which, to me, frankly made it hard for me to believe how he was not awarded this star earlier.  I was relieved to find out that there was not enough time in his first half year there to gain the necessary inspections.

The set lunch menu was outstanding value for all of the add on extras (which I do vehemently believe make a lot of difference) and from the moment I entered through the novel door in a door staff were present and at the ready to guide and host.  I found the food elegant and carefully conceived showing technical skill in some cases not too out of place in some 2 Michelin starred venues I have been to.  Much pleasure was gained from the fragrant amuse bouche with delicate beef skin, the clever pork main and the superb petit fours which all registered well on the Richter scale.

Above the very reasonable set menu price (see below) I thought an especially nice touch was the option to have cheese instead of a dessert within the set menu and a choice of 5 from a very comprehensive list that was also interesting to read.  The truffled honey that went with was a triumph and frankly I could have just eaten this like soup with the lovely miniature spoon it came with.

A quality meal all round in a striking setting.  I didn’t have a chance to look at the Greenhouses along the rear driveway but based on the set menu here, it is a definite marker in the sand to ensure going back to see the menu in full song another time.

There was an absolute array of openers for this lunch as part of the full tasting menu option chosen.  Parmesan cheese biscuits with a soft cheese filling were small in size but absolutely exploding with cheese flavour – perhaps the most intense I have ever tasted.  Oysters were served frozen and as an ice cream with seaweed as an ingenious touch hailed by all at the table.  Alternatives of salmon and herring with pickle, apple granita and caviar on different servings which were all a fresh pleasure.  More oysters were then served in the traditional format with creme and caviar and then again with chorizo – all of which reportedly went down well with everyone.

The classic homemade focaccia, sourdough and treacle breads were as good as always and if this is the first review of mine you are reading about the Sportsman, it’s worth mentioning again how utterly sublime these are.  In nearly thirty years of knowing my Sister in law, she has never made any mention of any particular food to me, except being happy with to have just champagne and the bread at the Sportsman on a long afternoon.  I think that speaks for itself if anything does.

The scratchings were thankfully served again for this occasion but in this rendition, they were larger portions rasher meat, deep-fried and glazed with mustard and soy, served with an apple foam dip.  If it is possible, I think I almost preferred this version than the beloved scratchings they have served in the past and was another true moment of food happiness.

White crab meat with carrot and spiced hollandaise was the perfect fish starter but was upstaged by the mushroom tartlet with egg yolk with perfect pastry and intense mushroom flavour with hint of truffle.  The slip sole dish is a signature dish which used to be served with seaweed butter but is now served with smoked butter – again, something I think is a very welcome change.

Halibut was served with a mushroom and lemongrass sauce which, is a new touch and was stunning as a combination and the simple sauce with the fish and few vegetables was a cracker of a dish.  Beef formed the main dish with celeriac puree and a powerful jus, although this was the only part of the menu that didn’t quite hit the mark for me, with acceptable but not wonderful cuts of beef used and with a large amount of fat served that could not be eaten.

Cream cheese ice cream with ginger, on the other hand, was one of the very finest and enjoyable pre-deserts I have ever had without any exaggeration.  This was followed by a near-faultless passion fruit souffle and wonderful custard and chocolate tartlets as petit fours with coffees all round.

This concluded a fabulous meal.  With the exception of one dish that was merely ‘good’ in comparison to the others, the meal was an absolute triumph and perhaps the best one I have had on any visit.  The dishes have evolved but have kept in keeping with their traditional style that makes this venue so successful for me – simplicity done to superb levels.

For this occasion, the daily tasting menu was tried which I have not done before.  This is £55 for a six-course menu that represents more good value at The Sportsman.  The other bonus of this menu is that it does not need guests to arrive at 12pm or 7pm as the tasting menu does and can be ordered at any time through lunch and dinner services.  This was another splendid visit.

Pork scratchings with the cider dip was customarily wonderful and was lovely to be able to introduce these to my guest who had never had before.  The mushroom tart with egg was as superb as I recall, as was the focaccia bread.  A simple linguini with truffle was warming and basically perfectly judged and turbot with bouillabaisse sauce was delicate and simple.

Perhaps the only part of the meal I found beneath par was the maple-cured pork.  The fat allowed on the serving was too much to enjoy and whilst the meat was well done, it was only hitting medium wavelength happiness.  A dark chocolate and salted caramel tart was offset by a tangy dollop of creme fraiche as a classic combination.

Again, on this visit, no dish was in anyway a disappointment and I loved the mushroom mousse on delectably thin, crispy tart as well as the turbot with upgraded tomato cream sauce – I didn’t think it would actually be possible to overtake the vin juane sauce but I think this actually did and I loved every second of every course.  This was another wonderful meal and a double-absolute pleasure to share it with those closest to me on the quality occasion it was.

The interior has lovely wooden tables complete with log fire at the bar end to keep the feeling comfortably casual and all those that serve dinner clearly share the passion of the food served and enjoy describing all that has been prepared.  Another word on that is needed: the lamb fillets in breadcrumbs with a mint and syrup dip was phenomenal, the turbot with dessert wine cream sauce (vin jaun) and slice of pork rind on the top was utterly magnificent, the mushroom ravioli with droplets of truffle made the mushroom simply sensational and even the herb bread with salt crust with locally made butter was worthy of a mention in itself.

I cannot emphasise enough how enjoyable and memorable the food and full tasting menu was at this establishment (the tasting menu which is only available on various parts of the week).  There are only two places in the world whereby I feel worthy of giving 100% based on the food and this is one of them.  I would recommend this eatery for virtually any occasion, no matter how informal or special and it would most likely cater for any group or situation.  My only regret is that reviews like this might increase the likelihood of finding it tricky to get a table(!) and I will look forward to going back at any time.

Breads were sourced in from coburn in Brighton and the amuse-bouche on this visit consisted of a nettle veloute with peas, potato and Carroway pepper – a perfectly good start.  The black olive tapenade remains and for good reason, in that, it is a very good dip to have for bread.

Starters included foie gras, trumpette powder and pea veloute which was light and with gentle pickling which was a useful addition to the foie gras. Crab as the other starter came in the form of crab veloute with prawn oil, braised fennel and calamansi (citrus somewhere in between a lemon and lime).  This was a pleasurable combination with sweetness to compliment the rich veloute.

Quail with roast garlic with snail butter (minced with butter) puffed rice was the clear winner to be taken by both at the table for the main.  The quail done well and the garlic and snail butter was a perfect match.  The two desserts were then had – a souffle with oat, chamomile, vanilla and yoghurt cream was warming and cooked perfectly inside.  Additionally, a dehydrated raspberry crumble came with shards of matcha, raspberry and ice cream closed off the meal. 

This was a pleasure to be back and was great to see the restaurant performing at its good standard and not seduced into raising prices deliberately for the awards.  Long may this venue continue to thrive as a result.

I really enjoyed the flavours and textures of the crab starter with its citrus gel and cauliflower and the foie gras was beautifully smooth with a great supporting element of the toasted nuts which I haven’t had before and was a brilliant coupling.  The partridge was succulent but I found I didn’t need anywhere near as much of the salsify powder provided as was a powerful bitter; in fact this was the only element that didn’t really gel with me.  Otherwise, the food all round was carefully considered, including the pepper butter at the start (quite a kick and original as a result) and olive spread as extra bits of efforts from the kitchen which I think does make a difference.

What was a little bizarre was the position of the restroom in the upstairs dining area which was directly next to the kitchen entrance so you will need to dodge waiting staff as you need to cut right across their cross-lane in a congested corner of the restaurant.  As I could see the staff having to knock on the door of the kitchen to avoid a clash with anyone on the other side (whilst holding finished plates), making way for customers is another constraint so I actually didn’t go to the restroom upstairs to avoid causing more strain and was strange to see.  However, this is not show-stopper and certainly, not much an exquisitely old building that the restaurant has based itself in can do to change this at this stage.

The hospitality was genuine and clearly many a strong, local following was evident for a much-loved neighbourhood restaurant.  Very good food here and exceedingly good value, all served with a top-level smile.

The meal started with snacks of warm cheese tarts from using Canterbury cobble and pickled walnut and oak-smoked cod’s roe with homemade pickled cucumber in between discs of potato with powdered seaweed from white table and caviar.  Both of these were strong messages from the kitchen. 

Homemade focaccia made with Kentish rapeseed oil with crispy onion and herb oil with soda bread (from the head chef’s Irish roots) with buttermilk and black treacle, homemade butter Hixenden dairy (outside Dover) whipped and smoked pork fat with marmite, maple syrup and bacon crumbs and onion softened in butter were heavenly. 

Isle of Wight tomatoes and Westcombe cheddar curd came with herbs from their own herbarium, fennel and Greek basil. Lemon verbena was used in the tomato consomme with rocket oil to lovely effect – a rich and light balance which was not too acidic.  

Hand dived Orkney scallops with bean mint purée white currants, horseradish jelly made from the scallop skirts and mixed with butter for the sauce.  Duck liver parfait with pickled onion cherries from Kent were served with butterfly sorrel, jelly from sautéed wine and served with very good mini doughnuts.  

Langoustine was served in a butter emulsion with pearl barley beans, lightly dressed with fried curry leaf, fresh apple discs and underneath kohlrabi roll.  The langoustine itself came with mayonnaise, white balsamic gel, fennel flowers and sauce from shell, using a butter spiced mix – a French version of garam masala usually cooked with shallots and garlic.  

Sea bass from Hastings came with fennel oyster leaf, broccoli purée, salsify stems, summer truffle shavings on top with tempura sea bass and white vinegar gel.  A very nicely done dish.  Grouse crown was oven baked and with the legs poached which was prepared and cooked well.  

Pork jowl glazed cheek with puffed wild rice and buckwheat came with local Kentish apple compote, apple caramel, caramelised apple purée and apple blossom cracked wheat under kohlrabi and apple foam. This was a good dish but the jowl skin was a bit hard work and better bits were to be found elsewhere.  Scottish grouse cep herb emulsion with girolles and smoked potato tart was fine with onions and fresh green gauge plums.   

English rose brûlée was served with confit lemon, poached peaches in camomile tea and a rose granita from Gusbourne.  This was highly refreshing.  A more decadent and welcome milk chocolate and hazelnut cream crémeux, hazelnut crumbs, confit lemon, birch raspberries, raspberry and tonka bean sorbet followed.  

This was a belter of a meal and a lovely option for visiting Kent as well.  This meal was just under £148 per person but this was for a huge tasting menu at very good quality and drinks so I would rate this as actually very good value for money, particularly if you compare to a 3 course lunch at Le Manoir aux Quat Saisson being £150 alone.  If you would like to get the train here, Sturry is the closest station – I would recommend a time in summer for the terrace or inside by the fire for colder months as the venue seemingly caters very well for both.  

The average 3 course a la carte meal will cost around £55 pp, the full 8-course tasting menu £95 and if you go at lunch on the w/e there is a set 3-course meal at £35 for best value for money.  I chose to do none of those(!) and actually liked the look of three of the starters so I did that instead which worked out at £45 with no drink but included service, canapés, homemade breads, coffee and petit fours – this is quite fair with food at this level.

Sat opposite a log fire on a chilly afternoon was a very pleasant way to start the canapes which consisted of three snacks.  Black pudding beignet with sherry vinegar, apple and mustard was delicate and pleasing.  Smoked cod’s roe, seaweed and oscietra caviar had a lovely addition of pickled gherkin for the onslaught of smooth roe and a tartlet of Canterbury cobble (cheese) with pickled walnut had a beautiful punch of cheese in extremely thin pastry.  A very good start.

Homemade breads were malt sourdough & treacle soda breads, home churned butter, with an onion dip made from reduced onions and with local ale (very nice).  The final spread was pork fat with marmite and shreds of maple bacon.  Normally I don’t enjoy marmite but this was beautifully sweetened, subtle and offset by the maple cured bacon bits in a great way. So far, so great! 

Duck liver parfait was the first starter served with clementine, Sauternes and warm doughnuts.  This was well done and the pickled onions and clementine gave a very good balance in lieu of a chutney whilst parfait was not lost.  The doughnuts themselves were a novel replacement for the usual brioche – beautifully soft and releasing a lovely aroma through the steam when torn open.  

Local white crab with pickled cucumber, Kentish cider jelly and hollandaise was a clear choice to be asked for in the Spring.  Not mentioned on the menu were buckwheat seeds which have a particularly gritty crunch which was a surprise, but even more was a piece that felt even harder.  This, sadly turned out to be a piece of crab shell instead.  Another piece of crab shell put me off eating the remaining half of the dish.  Aside from this, the dish was clearly impressive to the eye, but the hollandaise could have had more impact through the cider gel as could the crab, so this was the lower end of the meal.

Finally, seven score asparagus, brown butter, lardo layer, wild garlic, wild garlic leaves, puffed rice and cooking juices of the asparagus was thankfully a triumph.  Interesting to have green and white asparagus on the same plate to get the difference between them (white asparagus is slightly more fibrous and unsurprisingly, with a less grassy flavour) and these were both pleasant.  The wild garlic was super and not overpowering at the same time and all elements tied up together nicely.  

As I was in a rush at the end, I forwent dessert and took a chance that petit fours would come with the coffee, which, indeed they did and this, therefore, became my dessert as hoped.   Coffee was lost sheep coffee, a local brand from Canterbury.

Although I could only manage three small dishes (starters) on this occasion and one of the three turned out to be not great, you would think this was grounds for the score being barely above 60%.  But, the technical ability in the breads, spreads and canapes go a long way to the whole and measure of the venue when all other components are skillfully done as indeed these were.  The crab shell was unfortunate but this can happen.  Having said that I was a little surprised that after I pointed this out and clearly stopped eating the dish halfway through as a result it was still charged at the end.  But then again, here is a good lesson to ask the staff’s views on what to do when this happens or a dish can only be half eaten at the time.  

I was generally very happy with this visit and it is well on my radar to return to do the whole treatment next time and in the summer.  If you find yourself driving here which will be the case for most visitors I assume given its rather tucked away location, give yourself an extra 20 minutes to try and find a parking space somewhere near.