Not Starred But Recommended Archives - Major Foodie https://major-foodie.com/category/recommended/ Fine Dining Honestly Reviewed Fri, 19 Jul 2024 11:49:17 +0000 en-GB hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.7.1 /wp-content/uploads/sites/16/2020/01/cropped-mf_green_jpeg-32x32.jpg Not Starred But Recommended Archives - Major Foodie https://major-foodie.com/category/recommended/ 32 32 Dishoom (Covent Garden) https://major-foodie.com/dishoom-covent-garden/ https://major-foodie.com/dishoom-covent-garden/#respond Sat, 05 Nov 2022 09:00:28 +0000 http://major-foodie.com/?p=10667 Delightful Indian option and Bombay Café-esque diner that serves quality dishes for reasonable prices Location

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Delightful Indian option and Bombay Café-esque diner that serves quality dishes for reasonable prices

Dishoom Covent Garden has had a huge refurbishment which is welcome for this branch as the interior here was my least favourite and cramped of all the London branches.  It now boasts huge ground and lower ground areas that are brand new (as at Oct 2022) and includes a rather nice, small conservatory area at the back of the ground floor level. This occasion was showing one of its gems to a friend who had not had it before, which was the Indian brunch and happens to be a favourite of mine for morning dining within London if I had to choose.  The bacon and egg naan is still very good and proved to be better than the sausage and egg naan (tried by both myself and guest) and it was good to try the vegan sausages as well for curiosity…but the results are the same in that the bacon and egg naan for flavour and volume is still the best in my opinion.  If you have not had this yet, I would recommend especially with the unlimited chai masala (also lovely at Dishoom) at breakfast.

Food Grade: 65%











My second visit to this branch of Dishoom having completed the set of four in London now.  I tried the sausage and egg naan (stupidly missed the photo of it) as have had the bacon naan several times and although this was very nice, I would go for the bacon version.  The Full Bombay was also had on the other side of the table and this was a fine picture indeed.

I forgot how magical scrambled egg and baked beans are from childhood – the staff very kindly brought out on request a small version of this for me to enjoy after the naan.  With unlimited cups of chai tea (I think we enjoyed about 4 each!) the whole bill came to £26 all in, which is pretty amazing for the quality of the food and charm of setting.  I booked this table for 2 last week and was the last one available for Sat breakfast and this would appear to be ever popular as a weekend event so my advice is to book well early if you are looking for a quality and original breakfast in London on the weekend.  A lovely thing to re-experience and especially on the occasion it was.

Food Grade: 65%



This is my third Dishoom I have been to in London and this time was for a small breakfast.  I was simply bowled over at how nice the ginger cured bacon with spiced ketchup with soft cream cheese in a beautifully soft naan bread was and it simply amazes me that the most average of places in town will charge the same as this option which is highly original and awesomely tasty.  This was also some of the nicest bacon I have ever had full stop and had the perfect weight, thickness and fattyness.  The chai (which is served on a permanent refill basis) is a lovely option as is the breakfast oats in a glass.

This is simply a gem of an option to have for breakfast (as indeed all Dishooms are sharing the same menu) and I look forward to completing the set with a visit to Carnaby St branch in the near future(!).

Food Grade: 65%







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Hutong (London Bridge) https://major-foodie.com/hutong-london-bridge/ https://major-foodie.com/hutong-london-bridge/#respond Fri, 31 Dec 2021 22:14:15 +0000 http://major-foodie.com/?p=8712 Chinese restaurant set high above London towards the top of The Shard building, fit for those wanting to be a part of glamour and glitz or needing to impress - pleasing food but heavily overpriced based on the location Location

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Chinese restaurant set high above London towards the top of The Shard building, fit for those wanting to be a part of glamour and glitz or needing to impress - pleasing food but heavily overpriced based on the location

Hutong is a Chinese restaurant in The Shard’s expanding collection of restaurants on its 33rd floor.  I have visited here at night (see review of Jan 14) and it is interesting seeing it in daylight as the visit this time round seemed to show a tired looking restaurant which the romantic feel in the evening and night time surely hides quite well.  For example, creased and food-stained paper menus are not what I would feel befitting of a restaurant of this kind and cost, but the table was pleasantly pleased with the food again which had commendable duck and fried noodles, some very good dim sum and sweet and sour cod fillets which were very nice, but just far too overpriced for the portion size at £36 (cod is also a cheaper fish relatively, fillet or no fillet).  It still obviously has utterly stunning views which, if you get a window table (not guaranteed), you can really enjoy the vantage point – and this may have something to do with its continued success no doubt.

Food Grade: 67%























Set high above London on the 33rd floor of the Shard building, there is no doubt that this is a very nice option to doing something different for your Chinese meal of the week if you are partial to trying something different.  There is a superb open bar on the floor beneath Hutong which also has a restaurant and there are also several other eateries on these two levels.  However, the more popular these become with time, as they now are, I would recommend booking well in advance.

The food here was good which I was pleased to see.  The supporting soy and hoi sin sauces were actually very good as was the shredded beef dish – good quality and succulant as well as being light on the crispyness without the gelatenous and squidgy exterior that so many poor Chinese restaurants produce (some even in China Town).   However, as pleasant as this food was, it was a real turn off to have this simple shredded beef priced at £19.  Only a year ago, I now see from their website that it is now £26 (as at Feb 15) and that has an ouch factor which is rare.  It was therefore confirmed – the prices you are paying here are not for the quality of the food but purely for where you are having it and I would therefore say, do it just to experience once for something nice, but then on principle alone avoid paying this amount thereafter.  One can, for this price actually gain two dishes at 1 Michelin starred level at Hakkasan for example to put in to perspective.

A nice meal here, with a superb view, but far too expensive for the only ‘good’ quality to make me have any burning desire to return immediately.

Food Grade: 67%








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The Wild Rabbit (Kingham) https://major-foodie.com/the-wild-rabbit-kingham/ https://major-foodie.com/the-wild-rabbit-kingham/#respond Wed, 15 Jul 2020 19:05:15 +0000 http://major-foodie.com/?p=12470 Gorgeously designed Inn with rooms in the Cotswolds Location

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Gorgeously designed Inn with rooms in the Cotswolds

What a gorgeous place.  And now, Nathan Eades, formerly of Michelin starred Simpsons in Birmingham has taken over The Wild Rabbit in 2017, there have been big shoes to fill from its former head chef Tim Allen (now overseeing The Flitch of Bacon).  The bottom line from this visit is that I was pleased that these shoes have been filled well with the overall impact of the dishes.  The menu averaged £55 for the a la carte menu (£65 for the 7-course tasting menu).  It is one of the most beautifully designed places to visit in the UK in my opinion and well worth a visit, with the reassurance that the menu is in good form as well.  Full details of the meal, as usual, are the expansion button below.

The Wild Rabbit is the brainchild of Lady Bamford who created Daylesford Organic Farm, a mile north of this hotel and restaurant and which has casual, organic shop/eateries in London.  There is a seriously nice feel to this venue with a front terrace for lunch, a casual bar/pub entrance area with an open log fire that provides a snack menu, rooms for those that would like to stay for an average of £250 per night, a beautiful garden terrace area at the back which shares a log fire (behind glass) with the open kitchen restaurant.

Whilst we are in COVID times, the menus have been turned in to QR codes that guests scan with phones and which take you to their online menus.  This is good as you know that what is on the website is what is being served in reality so you can actually do this before getting there and obviously reduces the need to use paper menus.  Hand gel is available at each table and staff were alive to the need for minimising time at the table, yet seemed happy to see customers again.

With the background and format sorted, on to the meal, which began with canapes of a tapenade at the bottom of a little flower pot with wild radish and broad beans and tapioca crisp. The cold tapenade had a refreshing taste to dip fresh elements of the garden in, presented in a very pretty way.  The tapioca crisp was extremely light and these were a pleasant way to begin, served with homemade French rolls and brown bread.

I had the Daylesford cheddar cheese and onion tartlet which was served with feuille de brick, candied walnuts and chives.  This was nothing short of a triumph. The pastry case was thin and absolutely well folded all-around with a mix of melted and almost aerated cheese which was beautifully light, with the sweet from the candied walnuts being a perfect balance.  The only observation I had was that the size of the starter was fairly conservative and almost tasting menu size – if the same size is used for both then there is a case for this starter being slightly larger.  If it is and the tasting menu tartlet is smaller, then I am probably guilty of being hoggish….or just over the top pleased to being back in a restaurant and wanting more(!).

The other starter was Vale of Evesham crab with tomato gazpacho.  The Cornish crab here was extremely fresh and moist with superb basil and pickled cucumber that really added punch and refreshing hit of acidity to the clean and lovely tomato gazpacho that is was smothered in.  This was another very good dish and everything thus far being a very good opening impression.

Cornish turbot came from a 4.2kg turbot and was served with garden pea, grelot onion, lettuce and a delectable smoked bacon sauce (creamed sauce with small pieces of bacon within).  The sauce was perfect for the turbot which was a pleasure all round, with the turbot perhaps a touch on the tough side compared with most I have enjoyed.  The other main was a Wootton Estate lamb.  This included best end rack and shoulder, served with miso-glazed aubergine, Market Garden courgette, Sheep’s curd and tomato.  When attention is paid to the detail it is really nice to experience and the glazed aubergine and explosive sweetness of the lone tomato in this dish were beautiful to go with the quality piece of lamb.  With three sauce-like components on the plate, the lamb was not shy of wet decoration; the fat from the lamb was a lasting good experience.

The desserts had were a caramel parfait and who can ever resist a decent soufflé? I was expecting the latter to be better but actually the caramel parfait revealed a superb take on banana and peanut butter desserts.  The caramel parfait was nicely judged in strength and smooth texture and covered in a beautiful blend of banana and peanut butter ice cream.  The caramelised filo pastry was complimented by a very nice blend of sweet from the caramel sauce and banana and umami from soft peanut.  A very light crunch of the pastry made this a superb dessert.

The Market Garden strawberry soufflé was airy and cooked as well as a soufflé can be, right to the centre.  Tonka bean custard was poured over unashamedly (and rightly so!) and I have to say the vanilla ice cream was fantastic in vanilla essence and super smooth and dare I say, almost outshone the actual soufflé.  However, this was a good way to end the meal leaving the two of us very happy.   Coffee served was extract of organic espresso.

A quick note on the venue as a stay over: I’ve been looking forward to enjoying the terrace garden here to enjoy wine ever since I first visited on my mission around the country and there is no denying that this is one of the loveliest hideaways in the heart of the Cotswold and country that you can come across.  Our room was the smallest of all (The Mouse) which just had room around the huge king-sized bed to manoeuvre and is reasonable at £165 for this room compared with the larger rooms averaging £250.  Information for guests arriving and checking in was more pedestrian than I was expecting for the price tag and could have been more swept up I thought.  The service in the bar area in the afternoon was definitely shaky compared with the evening service, but one can understand there is an air of tension as everyone familiarises with the new format to hospitality.

Breakfast was included in the stay and I would honestly say that this is another trump card of the visit as head chef Nathan Eades is there, personally making sure the breakfast is on top form with beautiful, organic farm produce.  Breakfast is only available to those staying over and this is a significant bonus of the stay.

So in general, definitely full marks to the Bamford design, Cotswolds stone and the kitchen for this proper visit and I would say it is worth more than its current accolade.  I recommend this restaurant to anyone, and to stay as a thing to have on the background to-do list, assuming you can actually find a date to getting a room – good luck on this as we caught a very rare opening and would definitely recommend planning and taking advantage of the windows of opportunity at the moment with not as many people checking in as usual.

Food Grade:  76%



























I was immediately taken by this place and there is no question that aesthetically it is possibly the most beautifully refurbished gastro pub / Inn in the whole country.  The Cotswold stone and log fires in the bar, restaurant and even outside rear patio make it beautifully picturesque which is why I have also placed this in the best view category as well (i.e. the view of the oustside rear area).  As The Wild Rabbit (from the Bamford family) has gained its first Michelin star (2017) it now has itself positioned more prominently on the UK map.

The food here was very nicely done.  Home made breads were pleasing to begin with and as salads are (for me) more difficult to make interesting, I wanted to see what this was like.  The result was an imaginative presentation with powdered onion decoration and a lovely amount of goat’s curd to add moisture and something lively into the proceedings on the palate making a lovely flavour.  The quail was another beautiful looking dish with some very delicate slices of Marteau sausage and glorious smoked shallot puree.  I wasn’t expecting to have such an acidic walk away flavour with the gel, creative as it was and personally I would have loved more of the puree and maybe another quail egg in breadcrumbs as I ran out of these relatively quickly to have with the amount of quail it was supporting, but it was an enjoyable dish.  A beautifully smooth lemon curd with madeleine as petit four finished off the meal very nicely in the bar area opposite the open fireplace.

The sides were simple and well done, as was the béarnaise that the kitchen kindly gave on request.  There were a couple of minor dips in service that stood out to the critical eye (forgotten replacement bread that was offered and a lengthy wait for the bill) but generally, the key thing was that the staff clearly wished to try & make the experience a good one for the diner in the restaurant.

This was a lovely evening visit and would be utterly perfect for a dinner date or special little treat.  What I particularly loved was seeing people come into the bar just to grab a pint and the scrabble board mixed with those that preferred to have their rustic meal in the bar area instead of the restaurant which I think is one of the gems of our nation and the way in which this can be done in a sumptuous, yet cosy pub.  Based on the food I had it seems quite apt to see this one with a Michelin star, I will back here in a heartbeat for bar snacks and drinks with others whenever I can as a firm marker in the map.

Food Grade: 81%











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Indian Accent (Mayfair) https://major-foodie.com/indian-accent-mayfair/ https://major-foodie.com/indian-accent-mayfair/#respond Thu, 19 Dec 2019 12:04:12 +0000 https://major-foodie.com/?p=17015 Excellent class of Indian restaurant in Mayfair with matching excellent matching menu options Editor's note: closed June 2020 owing to the impact of COVID-19 and the need to relocate. Location

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Excellent class of Indian restaurant in Mayfair with matching excellent matching menu options

Editor's note: closed June 2020 owing to the impact of COVID-19 and the need to relocate.

Indian Accent has three branches only – one in New Dehli, one in New York and now (2017) in London.  I had already seen how good this restaurant on first opening to London in 2018 and on this revisit it only affirmed this further.  Lunch on this occasion was £24 for the express menu of two courses with a fortunate upgrade with dessert included (usually £27 at lunch) courtesy of membership with the Luxury Restaurant Guide (perks change from restaurant to restaurant and depending on menu chosen).  This food on this occasion was very well done and although I was initially concerned that I would not be full, all left absolutely sated without being bloated, therefore the menu was perfectly judged.  I would sooner come to this Indian restaurant than any other in the country, including all Michelin starred Indian restaurants in the UK.

The set menu today started with the signature blue cheese naan and shot of pumpkin-spiced soup which was a great start as always.  My choices for today started with chilli pork ribs which had a delightfully crispy masala crackling (deep-fried coating) and chilli sauce.  This was very good and the heaviness of the sauce was compensated by the sharp of pickled julienne vegetables.

Tawa chicken was the main selected.  This was boneless chicken served with a house curry which was served essentially as a spicy curry over the girdle cooked chicken and was carefully presented.  All main courses came with a collection of sides for everyone representing further excellent value.  These included tadka khadai vegetables, new potatoes with charred coriander, basmati rice that was light, fluffy and lengthy as well (a usual tale-tale sign of higher quality), roast sunchoke and boondi raita, naan breads and a sensational dal.  This black dairy dal had been prepared for 48 hours and this produced an ultra-creamy and luxuriously smooth dal – I have not had a finer dal to date.

There were numerous desserts to choose from but I could not resist going for the superb makhan malai which is essentially a large, aerated mousse made with saffron which is delicately judged on all levels and the brittle pieces of rose petal jaggery (a form candy) and almonds giving a superb textural crunch and sweetness to the saffron.  This is an excellent dessert and is also a signature dish which is great to see on the lunch menu.  The coconut cheese cake with very good chocolate sauce and the treacle tart were also very good to taste.

This was a quality meal and considering that it is essentially 4 courses (with amuse bouche) for £27, this is the staple example of why I enjoy/prefer going to establishments such as these in a heartbeat compared to restaurants of poor quality that charge virtually the same.  If you enjoy Indian food and want quality, I cannot stress how much this restaurant is for you.

Food Grade: 81%











Indian Accent has three branches only – one in New Dehli, one in New York and now (2017) in London.  Having been steered to come to its London branch, I was bowled over by the quality of Indian cooking here from going in and was even more surprised to see that some of these superb dishes are available on the lunch menu at the same time.  The skill is obvious to see from afar and certain moments like the smoked bacon kulcha bread and keema with quail egg are – no joke – absolute stunners and strong enough to make a booking on these alone and with other things being a possible bonus.  There are multiple menu options (something that the best Indian restaurants, particularly in London seem to excel in) including set lunch, pre-theatre, brunch on weekends and tasting menus.  By way of a summary I thought this was actually stronger than any of the Michelin starred restaurants in London and think if ever there was an Indian restaurant that deserves the same accolade, it is here.

I have been to Indian Accent twice and each time, the amuse bouche of coconut and pumpkin mini soup at the start has been utterly superb and with a surprisingly good blue cheese naan bite as well.  It is unusual for me to think so much of an amuse bouche, but this really did succeed.  The vegetable naan with supporting pau dip was pleasing whereas the smoked bacon and butter chicken kulfas were utterly beautiful.  Each kulfa has their superb filling and the sheer kick of flavour from the excellent bacon filling in particular is frankly marvellous.

The dahl was reassuringly smooth and creamy and the shredded and spiced lamb with mini pancakes is another quality dish.  As the lamb is spiced so well, I didn’t think it actually needed the overly powerful supporting chutneys, however the lamb was gorgeously tender with the fun of packing and wrapping your own pancake to taste.  Chicken kofta with its vegetable fritters and and sour yoghurt sauce was nicely done but the other main star of the show was soy keema dish with quail’s egg. The indulgent egg gives the already wonderful keema dish another level of decadence and to eat it, you would not have any idea that a soy dish could taste this good – it is a reason to come to Indian Accent on its own.

The lentil cereal was light and crispy as another play on the conventional use of lentils and its side of cauliflower transformed in to wafer-thin crisps producing a pleasing but on the dryer side of a dish.  Already approaching full, the thought of a dessert was not at the uppermost on the mind, however we were assured that the Makhan Malai would not be heavy.  Thankfully this turned out to be 100% correct as was essentially a very airy mousse made from saffron and milk with just a few almonds for texture and rose petals for presentation.  Saffron can be quite pungent, but this was done to a remarkably good balance and skilful level in a dessert not seen very often and which was another success of the meal.

All in, the bill came to just under £50 per head for additional snacks, three courses, tea, beers and service which, for this standard of cooking was entirely fair and I was more than ok with this price as a result.  In my view it actually out-classes the 5 Michelin starred Indian restaurants in the UK (all of which happen to be in London).  Although these are good, I would sooner return to Indian Accent in a heartbeat before hand.

Food Grade: 83%









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Tempura Matsu (Kyoto) https://major-foodie.com/tempura-matsu-kyoto/ https://major-foodie.com/tempura-matsu-kyoto/#respond Tue, 15 Oct 2019 21:20:45 +0000 https://major-foodie.com/?p=20320 Family-run riverside restaurant in Kyoto offering very good value or money Tempura Matsu is a family-run restaurant on the banks of the river Katsura which is on the very Western edge of Kyoto (a fair drive from the central town).  The originator, Shunichi Matsuno has passed on to his son and heir to the business […]

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Family-run riverside restaurant in Kyoto offering very good value or money

Tempura Matsu is a family-run restaurant on the banks of the river Katsura which is on the very Western edge of Kyoto (a fair drive from the central town).  The originator, Shunichi Matsuno has passed on to his son and heir to the business Toshio who was present on our visit.  Toshio has had work experience under some heavyweight 3 Michelin starred chefs in Europe and America.  This will explain the inventiveness that is seen in the food offered here which is served with genuine care and attention and with some very good food moments, this was a lovely experience all round; Toshio’s Mother was a delight looking after us with such genuine hospitality and the chef himself was cutting around at full steam helping others and leading at most of the service in front of us at the counter.  Although more Kaiseki than tempura, this was a great meal at a reasonable price for good quality food.

The restaurant has a counter and booths at the back of the restaurant.  It seems that the format for the restaurant is that being sat at the counter is prized seat and that if you are in the booth, they will try and get you sat at the counter for the latter part of your courses.  This is indeed what was afforded to us.  As we sat in the booth, the first course brought was a snow crab with fig, crustacean jelly and caviar which was an absolute gem.  Crustacean jelly was something I had had barely a day prior in 3 Michelin starred Chateaux Joel Robuchon and was nice to see in Japanese form. 

Second up was amadai (tilefish and a part of the sea bream family) with egg sauce, mushroom, truffle & shrimp skin and this too was an absolute winner on all grounds with the fish being perfectly cooked with such a decadent sauce and truffle complementing the mushroom so well.   Next came sashimi of red snapper (red), time fish (silver) and sea bream (white) with ponzu and soy sauces, ginger and wasabi.  These were all good quality.  I also liked the way that the bamboo was hollowed out to make a drinking vessel for the sake.

We were then moved to the counter where mackerel was grilled on charcoal in front of us and served with soy jam – this had a beautifully subtle touch of smoke and was a nice bit of theatre to have in front of us. The crab in miso soup was brilliant; deep in flavour and with excellent crab.  I couldn’t keep up with the explanations of where the crab came from but we were reassured that they get their crab and produce at premium locations around Japan and I have no reason to doubt them.

Chutoro with sesame sauce, sesame seeds, wasabi and soy with lovely rice was gorgeous and served in a bamboo basket and on the underside was anago (seawater eel) – these were fine.  Next up, an original way to serve beef.  Our A4 grade Kobe beef was cooked in soy sauce which began to caramelise and then dipped in egg yolk prior to being served.  This was absolutely great with a lovely sticky sweet from the soy and richness from the egg.  

Prawn and ginkgo nuts were the start of the actual tempura pieces for the meal and were a welcome element of light tempura batter and nicely done.  Next were silverfish and potato – this was absolutely lovely and a genuine hit.  Perhaps even better than the ‘fish and chips’ served at London’s 2 Michelin starred Japanese restaurant Umu, where I have had this play on fish and chips.

Seaweed Noodles with soy and quail egg and wasabi was the finale savoury served in a huge ice block.  Visually this was stunning and whilst the decision to serve cooked noodles ice-cold was actually not my favourite decision, the texture was great combined with the timeless combination of soy and egg.  Genuinely innovative and good to see.

The meal finished with Japanese tea ice cream and a superb dessert I have not had in Japan and the description of which was lost on me. Thankfully on hand, as ever, my associate, Mr Bainbridge steered me of this being a red bean sugar with bean paste and a sugared, nutty powder to coat to taste.  The whole dessert was original, fun and delicious – a cracking end to a quality meal.

This was a superb experience and all in the charm of an undiscovered gem. The final tally was just under £200 per person, but roughly a quarter of this was on account of the Kobe beef and the meal was fuelled with refills of sake throughout.  Therefore, this is a brilliant option to go for in terms of quality, homeliness and value for money – well worth doing.

Food Grade: 87%



















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Bibendum Oyster Bar (Chelsea) https://major-foodie.com/bibendum-oyster-bar-chelsea/ https://major-foodie.com/bibendum-oyster-bar-chelsea/#respond Mon, 26 Aug 2019 01:59:46 +0000 https://major-foodie.com/?p=18400 Long-standing oyster and seafood alfresco brasserie Bibendum is the name of the puffed-up Michelin man you will recognise from the tyre company and the Michelin red guides the world over.  This building used to be Michelin’s UK Headquarters and is now home to 2 Michelin starred Claude Bosi at Bibendum on the upper level and […]

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Long-standing oyster and seafood alfresco brasserie

Bibendum is the name of the puffed-up Michelin man you will recognise from the tyre company and the Michelin red guides the world over.  This building used to be Michelin’s UK Headquarters and is now home to 2 Michelin starred Claude Bosi at Bibendum on the upper level and Bibendum Oyster Bar on the ground floor.  I have been steered here for my pursuit to find the best fish and chips in London.  Pricewise, this was not actually as extortionate as I thought it would be for being sandwiched right in between Chelsea and South Kensington (£19 for the fish and chips plus bearnaise sauce).  Whilst the haddock (from Cornwall) had good flavour, the batter was unfortunately not as flavoursome as its well textured and thin layer suggested.  Tartare and bearnaise sauces (the latter for the chips) were both homemade and decent enough, yet the ketchup was from Heinz – if this was homemade as well I believe this is an easy victory for raising the stakes.  Mushy peas were very fresh, although personally, I prefer mine a little more sloppy, getting more ‘mush’ in the process.

Were it not for the Ferraris making the windows practically shake as they cruised by, this would have been a lovely and quiet sunny lunchtime meal and on a hot day was quite difficult finding a cool area to dine.  Only so much Bibendum can do about both of these but in summary, it is a pleasant spot and a good possible option for breakfast as well (which they do).

Food Grade: 63%









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Kutir (Chelsea) https://major-foodie.com/kutir-chelsea/ https://major-foodie.com/kutir-chelsea/#respond Thu, 25 Jul 2019 12:26:27 +0000 https://major-foodie.com/?p=17372 Refurbished former Rasoi and Vineet Bhatia location serving quality Indian cooking under Rohit Ghai Location

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Refurbished former Rasoi and Vineet Bhatia location serving quality Indian cooking under Rohit Ghai

A very pleasant return to Kutir from Rohit Ghai.  Kutir, incidentally meaning cottage in Sanskrit is aptly named by being away from the bustle of the town off King’s Road and the very pleasant way in which you need to ring the doorbell to gain entry in keeping with its townhouse feel.  This meal was taken in the Atrium and for more photos of the rest of the restaurant and their private dining room upstairs, please refer to my first review of 30 Nov 2018.  The hospitality here is second to none under the steerage of the General Manager Prem Sangwan and this a charming setting in general with reassuringly decent Indian food and one I would recommend.

Food Grade: 80%

Naan breads were wonderfully fluffy but not too thick and served with a very good gooseberry chutney which was a pleasant change from mango.  Pink prawns, coconut, sesame and Roscoff onion were meaty and sweet. The lamb I have had before and is extremely good with real depth of lamb flavour, gently balanced with black cumin, sprouts, onion and yoghurt.  I’m actually struggling to think where in London I have actually had better lamb chops.

Morels with berries, wild mushroom, white turmeric and crisps was very good as I recall it so I was pleased that my dining companions who had not been there enjoyed this.  The panfried sea bass, curry leaf and coconut was a very delicate dish as is the fish, and both were treated exactly as they should be, the curry being a gentle accompaniment to the lovely sea bass cooked to perfection (much more difficult than most realise).   

Chicken tikka masala with fenugreek, tomato and Kashmiri chilli was a masterstroke.  I was curious to see how Kutir would handle this and the result was a bowl of sweetness and depth of tomato curry with succulent chicken contained within and at this point, I only wished I had a bowl of that and nothing else to fill me up as is usually the case when dining on Indian cuisine (very filling).  The Kutir kaali dal had good depth and was a luxurious dip for the naan.  Sadly none of my dessert photos made it successfully, but the two tried were well spiced and light at the same time.

Another very good experience here, which I would definitely put on your list of to do’s if you are in any way fond of curry, for this upgrade experience.  If this establishment received a Michelin star, I would say this is entirely appropriate.











Kutir is the revitalisation of the same charming Chelsea townhouse that used to be occupied by Vineet Bhatia’s Rasoi (rebranded to being called Vineet Bhatia in its latter months prior to closing).  Rohit Ghai is the new owner and has done, frankly, a very nice job with it.  The refurbishment is elegant and cosy at the same time.  The atrium allows much light in the back area and its name of Kutir, meaning cottage in Sanskrit, seems appropriate being away from the bustle of the town.  The food is clearly in an upper realm of Indian restaurants within the UK and I would be much more inclined to return here than several of the existing Michelin starred Indian restaurants based on this meal.  I cannot see why this should not join this tier in the next guide, but then again the same question mark exists in my mind for Indian Accent, so you never know what Michelin are up to sometimes.  A definite recommendation for Indian food and unlike any of the others in its Chelsea home-like setting.

The menu at Kutir is mainly North Indian cuisine but also showcases signature dishes from around the country.  Menu prices are not vast considering the location, but it is easy to get caught up with several attractive options from under £10 which will obviously add up.  For this visit, we tried the stone bass squid, scallops aubergine, truffle mushroom khichadi and I could not resist one on my favourite curries of all time, the duck korma.

Nibbles of breads, crackers and popadoms were the obvious nibbles, but crucially, were done well (not too oily at all) and served with very good chutneys especially the mango and pineapple spiced chutney.   The tandoori cooked stone bass came with squid ink and crisps and was marinated in yoghurt, cream cheese and spices making it nice and moist.  It included two little squid rings which, separately were very nice as well.  The scallops were hand-dived and served with aubergine frittas and puree which was pleasing, but the actual sweetness of the scallops was one of the gems of the whole meal.

Quail naan (naan bread with diced quail inside) with scrambled egg and truffle on the top was never going to fail as a combination, but it was a little tricky to eat with hands and actually qualified as a dish in itself when I was mainly after a naan to help mop up the korma.  This was duly provided in the form of a plain paratha, kulcha and naan and were all fine in texture (great to have the different kinds of breads on one side plate).

The lamb was another highlight in that it almost didn’t need its supporting cumin (but was delicately handled all the same) as the quality of this lamb was super providing excellent flavour.  Truffle khichadi (a form of kedgeree using lentils with rice) was rich and satisfying.  The duck korma was very good to have albeit with a korma sauce that I was expecting just a little more kick or excitement from.  Certainly not a negative though.

Dessert comprised of chilli chocolate banana mousse.  This was heavy but pleasant, along with ginger biscuit & dehydrated banana with creme brûlée using a hard & soya chocolate to accompany along with banana fritas on toffee.  This was a superb dessert and would rival a mass of desserts in any Michelin starred restaurant you care to mention and was a lovely finish to show that this ex-Jamavar head chef is still very much operating at a consistently high level and I look forward to returning when I can.  

Food Grade: 80%















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Poppie’s (Camden) https://major-foodie.com/poppies-camden/ https://major-foodie.com/poppies-camden/#respond Fri, 14 Jun 2019 11:16:34 +0000 https://major-foodie.com/?p=18370 Fish and chips served 1950s style Amazingly it is actually hard to find fish and chips done to championship level in London, but there are a few options I think merit a stab if this is your bag.  Poppie’s is one of them and this is a chain of just 3 (Soho, Camden and the […]

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Fish and chips served 1950s style

Amazingly it is actually hard to find fish and chips done to championship level in London, but there are a few options I think merit a stab if this is your bag.  Poppie’s is one of them and this is a chain of just 3 (Soho, Camden and the original window stall in Spitalfields) and this branch in Camden certainly is the largest.  I understood why there is usually such a long queue outside when I was finally in being served by people dressed in 1950s attire with 50s music in the background with a charmingly laid back atmosphere (see expansion button for more on this).  The haddock itself had good flavour and pleasing batter cooked in vegetable oil, as were the chips.  Tartare sauce was reportedly homemade, however, I believe the ketchup is from Heinz and placed into Poppie’s little containers.  The price of £13.95 for the regular Haddock and chips was very competitive, considering this would be on average £15-20 in a higher-end pub or venue in central London.

Poppies takes its name from the owner Pat ‘Pop’ Newland, from the Eastend of London and has been in the fish and chips industry since he was 11 years old, folding and cutting parts of the Daily Mail for fish and chips to be served in.  His love of that period in time in the 50s has steered him to choose over 1000 songs from that era as the music in the background of the shop and I loved the way that the staff behind the counter are dressed as old school fish traders and the staff are more formally dressed as in partial throwback to the 1950s.

My singing waiter gave the atmosphere a breeziness that was lovely to experience and the feel of the restaurant was a pleasant surprise.  This is its uniqueness and whilst there are some other good fish and chips options in London, they will not have this pleasant add on.  Speaking of which, other decent fish and chips options one can try I would say are Bibendum’s Oyster Bar, Scott’s in Mayfair, The Mayfair Chippy and if you are happy paying £29 (as at Oct 19) for it as a small dish, Kerridge’s bar and Grill The Corinthia (down from its £36.50 original opening price).

Nice touches here include the fact that the fish comes to Poppies fresh (not frozen) and is filleted every day by the same, stalwart fishmonger in house who has been doing it for Poppie for many years.  Do try Poppie’s if you fancy some decent fish and chips for a reasonable price in quirky and a charming setting.

Food Grade: 64%









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Beck at Browns (Mayfair) https://major-foodie.com/beck-at-browns-mayfair/ https://major-foodie.com/beck-at-browns-mayfair/#respond Fri, 12 Apr 2019 19:27:52 +0000 https://major-foodie.com/?p=17495 Wonderful Mediterranean cooking and hospitality in the main restaurant of Browns Hotel Location

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Wonderful Mediterranean cooking and hospitality in the main restaurant of Browns Hotel

In my opinion, Browns hotel is practically an institution in London, with its classic, black railing Mayfair exterior on Albermarle Street, charming 5-star boutique nature and beautiful afternoon tea setting. Heinz Beck is the master behind the scenes here, hence its title, with himself owning 3 Michelin starred La Pergola in Rome. After spending several years at La Pergola, amongst other venues, Heros De Agostinis was deployed in early 2018 from La Pergola to carry the Beck flame at Browns hotel for Italian cuisine. I have now been there four times such is the appeal from my first visit and based on this thorough examination, not only is it clear as daylight to me that this is operating in the 1 Michelin starred tier, but I have yet to have better Mediterranean food anywhere else in the UK at time of writing. Set lunch is a cracking deal at £29 for three courses including extras and the acoustics and spacing of the tables within the restaurant combined with the honest service make this a winner of a place all round. I was delighted to see on this last visit that the wine list has been altered to be more inclusive. Although it may look overly grand, it has never been stuffy on any of my visits. I highly recommend this restaurant.

A selection of crudités in ice started the proceedings to munch on and were, as usual, vibrant and pleasant to dip in the olive oil, balsamic and creme fraiche. Other snacks included Gillardeau oysters with matcha tea jelly & yuzu, smoked salmon, potato cream & horseradish tarteletts (my favourite among the snacks) and mini tacos with buffalo mozzarella & tomato. Nicely done and a pleasant way to start.

Roasted octopus, pecorino romano cheese & infusion of green pea was a first starter with the peas doing a lot of the talking in being such good quality (actually more of a talking point than the octopus). An absolute favourite of mine here is the Fagottelli alla carbonara – delicate pasta parcels with pecorino, parmesan, egg yolk and (shhh!) a tiny dash of cream. Although some protest at cream in a carbonara, I do not care, this makes it sheer savoury liquid heaven (as its purpose) and with the dried crispy bacon shavings on top, frankly it is worth coming here just for this dish (now on the tasting menu only). It’s also important that I mention that this is one of the stand out dishes of the 3 Michelin starred La Pergola and as far as I can tell, there are only minuscule differences between how this Fogattelli compares in the two restaurants – that’s not bad!

Roast leg of milk-fed lamb, coastal vegetables, yoghurt & spices was very nicely done, the lamb having good flavour and perfectly cooked. The combination with the spiced yoghurt, already well balanced, with pleasing veg and finely presented Hasselback, or potato fan. Risotto with Robiola cheese, spiced pork salumi & courgette flowers was nicely moist, had a good stock and with well-chosen textures to add a welcome crunch. The cheese board covered most of Europe and came with pleasant chutney additives and additional rye bread.

Usually this would be it in terms of the write-up, but the raspberry gel petit fours are so good here that they are worth their own mention. It’s very rare you find these at the right softness and taste – I find they are either the right flavour but with the texture of a squash ball, or squidgy enough but with levels of sweetness that feel like they could dissolve your teeth in a matter of minutes. These however, are the absolute best of both worlds, so soft and lightly sweet, with just enough fine, caster sugar, it is actually a talking point. The salted caramel truffles and raspberry macarons are also notably good here as petit fours.

All in, this was approximately £100 per person which, with some very upgraded wine by the glass, is not that bad at all for the quality and setting. If you are a member of the Luxury Restaurant Guide, you also get a free glass of champagne at your meal if you order from the a la carte menu and this is a superb offering as well. For all the above reasons, I think this is a truly great spot in London, serving some carefully chosen and well-executed Mediterranean and Italian food that I have yet to find being trumped anywhere in the UK for this cuisine. In conclusion, frankly I have no idea what the Michelin Guide GB & Ireland are holding out for here. 2020….?

Food Grade:  81%











For background details on Beck at Browns, please see my latest review.  Suffice to say I was utterly treated by my friend for this lovely occasion and was a double pleasure to be able to catch Mr Heinz Beck on a chance visit to his restaurant and Head chef at the same time.  Clearly, the Fagottelli had to be done by someone, but new dishes tried on this visit were the Veal sweetbread and strawberry dessert.  The sweetbread Milanese was served with salsa tonnato (a tuna mayonnaise sauce traditionally served with veal) & garden vegetables which all worked very well together with the sweetbread being moist.   The strawberry variation dessert was served with a softly whipped cream, couli, strawberry shard and breadcrumbs; no absolute frills, but as pleasant a classic strawberry combination as one can have.  The petit fours still held their own and were pleasing to the whole table, which held all living generations and I was delighted that Beck at Browns seemed to fit the occasion perfectly.  The party was in very good hands throughout, as was I in such good company.

Food Grade: 80%









For background details on Beck at Browns, please see my latest review. This was a Birthday celebration lunch on New Year’s Eve and was actually a nice way to do it when the streets are still relatively clear and then escape before the carnage.  Different dishes had on this occasion included roasted foie gras, ravioli and linguine.  The roasted foie gras was served with artichoke puree, artichoke crisp and raspberry jus which was a good combination, the artichoke working surprisingly well.  The clam linguine with zucchini was reportedly very good however, the tomato ravioli was in last place by all accounts; nothing poor, but the pasta was a fraction too hard beyond al dente and low impact as a dish overall.  Fagottelli raised the bar sufficiently to forgive this dip and all put to right thereafter.   A repeat of the wonderful tiramisu was also clearly needed owing to being such a light and enjoyable winner all round.  The bill came to £135 for three with glasses of wine (three of which were courtesy of membership to the Luxury Restaurant Guide again – a winning discount here!) and this, again is a very fair deal.  Another very satisfying visit.

Food Grade: 79%









For background details on Beck at Browns, please see my latest review.  This was my first visit to this restaurant and I was heartily pleased to be back where I had heard Heinz Beck had actually inserted his 3 Michelin starred Fagottelli from La Pergola which I have previously done.  I was delighted to see and taste that there were only micro differences between the dish served in Rome and this one.  Please see my latest review on why I think you should go here just for this dish.   Otherwise, I got a hard-hitting impression from this first meal that not only is the environment alluring whilst being non-snooty at the same time, but it somewhere you can see yourself going back to time after time.  Is there any other result you would want for a visit to a restaurant and for the restaurant itself?

Snacks were had in the bar which consisted of oysters with tarragon and tomato gels, mini tacos with beetroot and avocado cream and crostinis served with butter and anchovy, lemon cream and caviar.  These were certainly a very strong first impression just to nibble on.  I have had snacks and canapes in Michelin starred restaurants that these would put entirely to shame.

Sea bass carpaccio was served with cannellini beans, vegetable crudités and white truffle of Alba and lime.  All the supporting parts went well with the fish which was not too marinated as a carpaccio which was good to see (some can be doused too much, making them more as they should be as a ceviche).  Dressed crab, grilled cabbage, carrot and lemon dressing was another beautifully fresh starter.  The carrot sauce was sweet and worked very well with the crab which was also 100% shell free which seems to be a rarity these days and a considerable bonus for this visit(!).  Scallops came from Scotland and came with potato crisps and pickled Tropea onions (red, long and sweeter onions from Tropea, Southen-tip of Italy).

Veal tartare was served with parmesan cream truffle, rosemary bruschetta and sandwiched in between two thinly sliced pieces of sourdough that were shallow fried.  Yes, this was as sumptuous as it sounds and the veal tartare itself perhaps gaining a significant hand from its accompaniments, but boy were they a welcome hand!  You could probably hoover this dish in a matter of seconds if there were no restrictions.

However, the absolute crown of the meal went to the Risotto.  By the time this came, we were actually getting a little full, and I vividly remember thinking that it was going to be too much when I saw it.  These thoughts utterly disappeared and were replaced with the thought there might not be enough of it as it was genuinely that marvellous.  Aside from the superb veal stock that had clearly gone into it, the delightful textures from the stock and the light crunch of the artichoke crisps were complimented by one of the greatest truffle balancing acts I have ever had.  In terms of a risotto the only that could compare from memory was that served in La Calandre, a 3 Michelin starred restaurant in Padua, 20 minutes south of Venice where their liquorice and saffron risotto is well known in the food explorer’s world.  I actually think as a risotto, this was perhaps even better and left me smiling for the rest of the day.

The finale to the meal was trying what could clearly be the only thing to try for an Italian meal and with only a tiny amount of space left, which was the tiramisu.  The modern take on this was nicely done in serving it affogato (traditionally espresso poured over vanilla ice cream) and this was an espresso and chocolate sauce over the tiramisu which was as light as a cloud and a genuine pleasure.

This meal was not the cheapest (see receipt for why) and in terms of either having a sensational glass of the Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia at £75 each, or something average, the answer in our heads was, “Well, it’s Christmas!”.   Overall this made for a pretty hefty £250 each, but in the surroundings, service and offerings that were had, I am far more happy paying this for these sorts of pleasures than an average meal at even a third of this price which, can very often be the case.

A brilliant first visit, revealing a confirmed little gem.

Food Grade: 86%















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28 Hubin Road (Hangzhou) https://major-foodie.com/28-hubin-road-hangzhou/ https://major-foodie.com/28-hubin-road-hangzhou/#respond Thu, 28 Mar 2019 14:36:20 +0000 https://major-foodie.com/?p=17440 Flagship restaurant within Grand Hyatt hotel, Hangzhou The Grand Hyatt in Hangzou sits literally by the East side of the huge lake that is one of the main attractions to this city.  28 Hubin Road is its primary fine dining restaurant and this visit certainly showed why with its wonderful and intricate selection.  The cuisine […]

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Flagship restaurant within Grand Hyatt hotel, Hangzhou

The Grand Hyatt in Hangzou sits literally by the East side of the huge lake that is one of the main attractions to this city.  28 Hubin Road is its primary fine dining restaurant and this visit certainly showed why with its wonderful and intricate selection.  The cuisine is principally from Hangzhou as well as from Suzhou to the north and Huaiyang to the west. Tradition is carefully restored and the food is reasonable here considering the efforts provided: the overall bill for two with wine came to just over CNY 1,440 which equates to roughly £82 per person and is a fair total based on all had including wine.

The technical prize from the whole of this China visit went to the braised ‘Dongpo pork’ which was served with mini chestnut pancakes (akin to mini pita bread).  Imagine the longest streak of beautifully soft bacon but nowhere near as salty yet with wonderful fat content throughout, wrapped into a pyramid shape, layer after layer – this is that.  The idea of eating is to literally unwrap it layer by layer, going around the base at first and the pyramid disappearing the more you unwrap towards the top.

Small pieces of pork, cured bamboo shoots and small pok choi are placed in each pancake almost as a mini sandwich and is particularly lovely to have (the succulent pork, the juices from the pork soaked by the pancake, supported by the crunch of the pok choi and acidity of the cured bamboo shoot.  A great combination and flavour all round – bravo.

This ‘Dongpo’ pork is named after the poet and gastronome Su Dongpo who is said to have forgotten about his pork belly braising on the stove while playing a game of chess 900 years ago when the dish was conceived, resulting in a far more tender finish than expecting.  The dish is served ‘Hangzhou’ style, meaning braised in soy sauce and huangjui (wine).  Boiled noodle soup came with sliced pork, bamboo shoots and preserved vegetables. This was an earthy and satisfying dish, the noodles being well done.

Two chicken dishes were tried.  One of these was a signature favourite called ‘beggar’s chicken’ worthy of its own attention.  The dish comes from the neighbouring Province of Jiangsu and is said to have originated in the Qing dynasty when a starving beggar stole a chicken and after slaughtering, hid his loot buried in the ground until he could safely cook.  On returning to his prize, the mud had set all around and in order to get rid of this he set light to it until the mud cracked open – this revealed a beautifully tender chicken which reached the Emperor’s attention and declared it so delicious that it was ordered to be included in the Imperial court.

A nice story and whatever the truth of its origin, the tradition of cooking chicken in clay remains a prominent part of Chinese specialities and in this case, the chicken is marinated in spices, stuffed with mushrooms, wrapped in lotus leaves and then roasted in a (non-toxic) clay pot. This dish has a fun additive in that guests are invited to volunteer to smash through the clay with a huge, wooden hammer.  I probably should have whacked it harder but didn’t want to demolish the chicken inside.  This was indeed a really succulent piece of chicken with the skin satisfying all the way through.  The second chicken dish (also cooked in clay) was served with pork knuckle and was as beautifully succulent as the beggar’s chicken and perhaps with an even more fantastic mix of stock, soy, spices and chicken juices in the bowl.  I thought both of these dishes showcased chicken to levels of succulence and flavour that are surely impossible to improve.

The dessert chosen was chocolate durian cake with caramelised pineapple and chocolate ice cream.  This was pleasantly done, the durian (a very pungent fruit) being mercifully soft but with its aroma and taste pronounced enough.  The chocolate ice cream had a stretchy sponge-like texture in the centre and was fine.

If you see the receipts, you will find this in two parts; this is purely due to the fact that we only just made it in time for lunch with the taxi queue at Hangzhou station being approximately 300m long and thick traffic en route and by the time we arrived, the beggar’s chicken had sold out.  Thankfully it was available for dinner and as we were swinging by again in the early evening, we popped in to have this as an early supper along with the dessert – a meal essentially spread over a very late lunch and early evening with a very expensive tea at a nearby venue further down the lake’s edge in between (beware of the price of certain teas is China).

Wine choices were reasonable with glasses of verve champagne at 19 and a decent enough Chardonnay at 11 which sit perfectly within London prices.   All in all, this is great option as a venue and justifiably popular.

Food Grade: 87%












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