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Gezellig (Holborn)

9th August 2019 by Richard Bagnold Leave a Comment

New addition to the London 2019 scene with food from Chef Graham Long, formerly of L'Autre Pied

Gezellig (Dutch for “cosy”) opened in June 2019 and serves a range of different menus at lunch and dinner.  The head chef previous earned L’Aute Pied a Michelin star and is now teamed up with his Dutch co-owner at Gezellig.  The wine list here is as notably decent as it is at Noble Rot so wine lovers, this is an excellent choice for a drop in even if it is to have a glass and canapes at the counter (which I think is another strong point of this restaurant).  The meal was proficiently cooked and reasonable in value (£61 with a supplementary main) otherwise, you can also get a 2-course lunch here for £22 and at the skill level of this restaurant, this is very good value and recommended to be tried.

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The meal started with canapes called ‘Bitterballen’ which were a form of mini croquettes made with mainly suckling pig.  These were absolutely excellent and the dot of dijon mustard was a beautifully done topping which was mixed with honey and pear giving a lovely, sweet edge that kicked in after a great hit of pork.  Sourdough was made on the premises and done well.

My starter was seared mackerel with white beetroot, aged beef fat and bone marrow.  This is not the first time I have had this combination (see Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms) and it proved to be a well-cooked and decent variation on this formula, the bone marrow not being too excessive but enough to compliment the already fatty mackerel.  I also tried spaetzle (a form of dumpling) with ewe’s curd, fresh peas and hen of the woods mushrooms which was pleasing to have.

The main was a suckling pig to share for two at £75.  If you’re going to do it, you may as well try it in the hands of someone who may very well know how to cook it properly – and thankfully this proved very much to be the case.  The baby pig came with broccoli with slivers or lard on top (which again, worked very well), guanciale (cured pork cheek) and cocoa beans in a creamy sauce as a side.  The pig itself was served with different parts – loin, belly, sausage and crackling.  The various parts were cooked well (the belly and loin being juicy) and it was the sausage that really took the prize for flavour along with a very seductive butter pork jus with the cocoa beans that was well worth drinking at the end without anyone looking(!).  The pig was from Herefordshire and when all said and done was a good choice to go for.

As I was quite full I did not opt with dessert, however, I did try the peach melba of my dining companion which was good to try and I opted instead for something novel on the menu as a perfect compromise – a ‘builder’s tea and biscuit’ seemed like a no brainer for £4.  This was a very large and homemade chocolate biscuit which was very good and equally super being dunked into the builder’s tea as per tradition.

All in all, this was a decent use of time for lunch and I recommend giving a go as you are in good hands here it would seem.  I look forward to going back and perhaps having some more of the superb canapes at the bar with a very decent glass of red in the colder months.

Food Grade: 78%

Main dining room
Homemade sourdough
Suckling pig canapés
Spaetzle
Mackerel
Suckling pig sides
Suckling pig
Head chef Graham Long
Peach Melba
Builder’s tea and biscuit
The lunch bill for two

 

Location

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  • Food Rating - 78%
    78

Summary

Open space and setting
Safe option for food
Value wine list

None of note

Restaurant Details

Permanently closed

Michelin Stars: N/A

Cuisine: British Modern

Address: Holborn Hall, 193-197 High Holborn, London WC1V 7BD

Website: Gezellig (Holborn)

Wine List: Click Here

Telephone: +44 20 3004 0004

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About Me

meMy hobby-turned-passion began to evolve during my assignments to London where I was fortunate enough to be able to explore all the Michelin starred restaurants in my spare time and as a result, I gradually built up a catalogue of all these venues.

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