New Michelin starred entry to the 2023 guide

St Barts is a beautiful, refurbished restaurant standing in the site of what was most likely a part of the old St Bartholomew hospital building area. The restaurant is nestled in the charming old and very new alleyways of the Barbican and Farringdon, with a restaurant view of the picturesque courtyard of St Bartholomew church. The cooking was very competent and the team very accommodating and professional although I thought the wine list could be broadened more in terms of choices by the glass. Lunch offers the more reasonable £70 tasting menu compared to the £140 evening tasting menu, but like fuller menus, there will undoubtedly be more luxurious ingredients and more courses on the latter. Overall, I was pleased with this meal and I hope it continues to develop as it is a very pleasant restaurant in general to visit.

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St Barts is under the helmsmanship of head chef Johnnie Crowe who is formerly of The Harwood Arms (when under Alex Harper) and Nest in East London. Our meal started with House made soda bread with slices of pancetta from the loin of Mangalaci, a breed of pig specific to Hungry and widely thought of as the ‘Kobe beef’ of pig. This was indeed very good and a simple and quality start.

Next up came Jersey beef Denver carpaccio (known for its marbling) which had 100 days aging and was swerved with horseradish perilla flower (within the shiso family). This had a lovely coating of oil and bite from the perilla which were pitched very nicely. Next came buttered mushrooms on set custard with mushroom stock, cep, shitake, caramelised yeast butter sourdough croutons and pickled foam – I thought this was cracking with punchy mushroom and indulgent textures and accompanying flavours.

Squash ‘risotto’, was next and was diced squash, puree pumpkin seed, praline and foam from pickled squash juice. This was indeed carefully prepared and executed but my mind could not help reflect on simpler and more powerful versions of pumpkin or butternut squash as experienced at 2 Michelin starred Kichisen in Kyoto. Peking duck from Yorkshire was aged two weeks in house to get rid of moisture in skin and served with pickled lingonberries, duck fat and berry compote dressing. Home made milk bread (very good) was on the side along with a mashed potato side as well.

An additional cheese course was opted for which included Yarlington, Baron Bigod, Beauvale, Sinodun Hill and Lincolnshire poacher, served with Buchanons Oatcakes, spelt sour dough crackers and fruit bread. All of these were hugely enjoyable and it was also very good to have such good condiments as well which included Medlar and onion chutney and quince.

The dessert was black apple with puffed wheat, black barley cake apple compote, black apple tuile and sour dough ice cream which was a good dessert however I probably enjoyed the flavour of the excellent sour dough ice cream the most – a lovely balance of sweet and slightly savoury, expertly done to accompany the rather bitter apple remainder, which did not perhaps feel like the main component. Tea came from the Rare Tea Company and Nespresso for the coffee and the petit fours were a skilful couple of chocolate tarlets made with koji, miso and caramel – whilst these were pleasant with well-executed pastry tartlets, normal ganache would have been more enjoyable in a tartlet as my preference if there was a choice.

In summary, there were some fine aspects to the produce sourcing here, with a very hospitable team and engaging and articulate chef on meeting and speaking with him. The restaurant is a beautiful place and I was pleased to have experienced it.

Food Grade: 72%