Georgian townhouse restaurant with rooms set in Regent Gardens, 15 minute walk NE from Edinbugh centre - creative food

Editor’s note: review conducted at time of venue holding a Michelin star – venue subsequently demoted in the 2020 Michelin guide.

Named after the number of dishes to choose from for each course (choice of 2 starters, 1 interlude, 2 mains, 1 pre-dessert, 2 desserts) this meal displayed highly creative and colourful food. Texture played a serious part of this meal and it was completely entertaining all the way with some original elements (shot of sweetened milk as a pre-dessert was pleasing as a dairy fan) and although I didn’t think it was the strongest Michelin star restaurant among its peers for overall flavour and satisfaction, it was perhaps the most inventive and reasonable.

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The opening snacks were quite simple here with pickled cucumber and gherkin and the chive oil was a pleasant change for the gooseberry bread to dip in and the latter was wonderfully squidgy and sweet. The duck ragout was smoked nicely and the dehydrated mushroom and supporting, soft vegetables was a contrast of textures with freshness.

Much the same can be said of the main. I opted to skip the soup (making my meal a choice of 2,2,1,2) and this chicken dish was the tenderest one could have with a lovely cheese and bacon element. The sweetness was provided from the pineapple and orange tang (purée and shavings) and texture from the beat crisps. The vegetable side was colourful and glazed with oil nicely but was at the same time quite bland.

The pre-dessert of sweetened milk was a creamy and sweet mouthwash and much more interesting than most pre-desserts. The dessert itself was fun, playful, interesting and I loved the custard. The pear pieces at the bottom with breadcrumbs were interesting but I didn’t like the honeycomb as this was darkened a bit too much and too sticky. However, the overall effect was original and pleasing.

The hospitality was very welcoming here and the restaurant itself narrow, but homely. This is the sort of venue that would be a lovely place to take Godparents and parents out for a celebratory meal.

Food Grade: 73%