Lalique (at Glenturret Distillery)

I should firstly mention how stunning the interior design of the restaurant is.  As ever, this has absolutely no sway on the final food grade, but Lalique certainly have adorned the restaurant well.  My guest was very pleased with the design of the Lalique crystal champagne glasses for example and we both thought the Lalique Brut champagne was actually very good indeed and a superb start to the meal which instantly set a good mood.

Canapes served included the red currant and liver on cocoa biscuit, which was a perfect combination of sweet.  A nectarine sorbet followed which as a replacement was very good to have albeit quite sweet rather than tart for an opening canapé. The Nori seaweed tart was stunning – bursting with umami and freshness, with just a hint of kick.  The Tattie Scone, which featured Highland wagyu, black truffle egg yolk and oscietra caviar was delightful. While I felt the scone had a bit more dough than should which was the main taste as opposed to the wagyu, the lovely burst of potato mayonnaise made up for this.

Breads were a mix of malted barley sourdough with House-Cultured Butter; on top of the loaf was a reduction of beer and molasses, smoked burred noisette with honey, highland rapeseed’, apple and bramble vinaigrette.  These were genuinely some of the nicest and most ideally suitable condiments for bread I have had in a very long time.

The Langoustine tartare was impressive as the opening dish, with buttermilk, caviar from the Sturia company, yoghurt, and dashi gel served with a langoustine biscuit made from the shell, called the ‘bisque-it’. The latter was very skilful and with such a strong yet tempered crustacean flavour at the same time and was a dish resembling more a two star restaurant than a one at this stage.

The Sea Bream was another highlight, featuring celery, apple, smoked apple purée, celeriac, and roasted suckling pig jus. While it was a bit denser than when steamed, the aging process before pan-frying made the flesh less juicy in texture but equally delicious. The Lobster Toddy was a unique twist on a classic bisque, served as a toddy with a bisque and barbecue with herb jus, radish. This was superb, plain and simple. The lobster roll and lobster tail were both equally very impressive and a wonderful way to enjoy lobster in ways that make it far more interesting whilst not going over the top at the same time.

Next came a single bite of ravioli called the Foievioli.  On a spoon was a single ravioli filled with albufera suace inside, foie gras, sour quince and truffle on top.  This bit bursted in the mouth and was simply an absolutely stunning piece of cooking and flavour satisfaction and I believe I could have had a conveyer belt of these.  For the main course a juniper smoked Roe deer was served with caramelised onion and roscoff onion purée as the main components.  The venison was done beautifully and was as succulent as they come – I was very impressed with this and the very well done substitute dish of mushroom for my guest who simply does not like venison.  The fact that the kitchen was willing to do this and able in the manner that it did resembled genuine class that is seemingly lost on many restaurants these days that refuse to offer alternatives.  

Pre-dessert was a ‘new take’ on Blood Orange Marshmallow Sour; a blood orange sorbet with saffron Sauternes which was refreshing and pleasant.  The main dessert was a maracaibo mille-feuille, served with green coffee, coconut sorbet and Glenturret Triple Wood, because, why not?! A lovely dessert which was decadent and not too heavy at the same time and basically a complete pleasure.

Food Grade: 86%