The Devonshire (Soho)

New venture for Ashley Palmer-Watts

The Devonshire is a much anticipated rebirth of a pub in Soho as the head chef for its separate restaurant (away from the main pub area) is headed by the ex-head chef of 2 Michelin starred Dinner by Heston Blumenthal.  This review does not reflect all of the food as is only based solely on the bar snacks which were had as we were promptly told on arrival that there was no space whatsoever for any tables AT ALL (exposing frustration at the question and generally not the classiest front of house delivery – then again, this is a pub). I thought the hollandaise sauce with chips was a very nice touch, but was mortified at Coleman’s mustard choice for the scotch egg (which sadly, with its slightly overcooked yolk meant I have had better at Fortnum & Mason foodhall) – it would have been such a better touch for home made mustard and whilst I applaud the heritage of Colemans, it is frankly frankly far too hot and not my first choice at all for mustards.  Even a home made piccalilli I think would have been better here.  The sausages were fine but a little lacking in herbs – again, I have had far better from Cumbrian butchers and the worst element being an utterly watery Bloody Mary which was huge disappointment.  The chips were probably the best aspect of the snack menu (genuinely fluffy inside wit very good outer crunch (most probably  double or triple cooked) but this is not the greatest summary if the best element of this visit comes down to the chips.  Sadly, this seemed like a huge hype as a result for such a seismic event as an ex-2 Michelin starred chef taking the helm. Whilst I appreciate the restaurant should be much more of an event food wise, it simply means I am not in a hurry to trying it.

Food Grade:  55%

Location