Cornus (Belgravia)

The meal started off with some wonderful canapés including Gruyère gougère, crispy pig’s head with walnut ketchup which was superb again.  New to this visit were squid ink crisps with taramasalata and a wonderful starter on the set lunch menu of pea and smoked ham velouté of English peas with crispy pig’s trotter and roast foie gras.  The velouté was silky smooth, packed with fresh pea flavour and lovely addition of the roasted foie gras and generous at that for the set menu to my surprise.  It all worked well together with the trotter and probably the most attractive sounding dish on both menus with the exception of the fabulous a la carte crab dish which my dining companion enjoyed.  For those new to this dish, it actually echoes an almost identical crab dish served at a 3 Michelin starred restaurant in Singapore called Odette and is served with apple sorbet underneath a layer of crustacean gelatine with perfectly heated wasabi emulsion dots.  The only real difference is the slightly thicker layer of gelotine at Cornus where Odette possibly has the edge on that, but Cornus has the brilliantly judged addition of apple and pear shavings for sweetness mixed in with the crab.  This is an absolutely resounding dish and as refined as the 3 star version is, I think the combination of pear and crab in this one is fabulous and I actually prefer the latter.

For the a la carte main, my dining companion enjoyed the huge, roast Scottish Cod, grelot onions, pot caught cuttlefish, crisp potatoes and Alsace bacon which was very good indeed.  I was only slightly surprised to see Cod being the choice on the a la carte menu and would have thought that was more suitable for the set menu, but all the merrier for me to enjoy the superb chicken set lunch menu option.  This was roasted French spring Chicken, served with croustillant of smoked ham and asparagus, Scottish girolles and summer truffles on top.  Again, truffles rather like foie gras are punchy additions to the set menu at the cheaper price so I was even more taken aback at the sheer brilliance of the value for money of this option, above the genuine pleasure of the dish itself.

My dining companion was happy to try the cherry Bakewell with almond milk custard and amarena cherry ripple ice cream and as a Bakewell tart fan, he gave resoundingly positive feedback for this being the best one he had ever tried.  This is a good sign! My dessert of raspberry pavlova with buttermilk and elderflower from the set menu was another killer with every component complimenting each other over.

This meal was a treat for a friend so I will resist putting the final meal on here, but I’m sure one can easily get a sense.  My own take is that this is not only one of the finest options in London currently for sheer skill and culinary pleasure impact, but also proved to be utterly superb value for the return on the set lunch menu if you are looking for seriously quality food at Michelin starred level at reasonable prices.  All held together by a very good team (well drilled, humble and very hospitable) with an outdoor terrace option in the summer, overlooking the rooftops of Belgravia.  I can’t think of any nearby option that trumps this for ticking all boxes a well as here.  I strongly recommend Cornus for basically any occasion.

Food Grade: 84%

This opening meal started with potent canapés including Gruyère gougère, crispy pig’s head with walnut ketchup (lovely light batter and in general compared to most I have had) and delicate cauliflower mushroom tartlet with and chive emulsion.

For the main dishes I tried what is frankly an iconic crab dish with pitch perfect level of wasabi heat and wonderful touch having Apple and pear shavings blended in with the crab. Truffle cheese in the tortellini was complimented with squid ink, egg yolk, parsley pasta with explosive winter truffle scent and flavour; this was gorgeous to mop up with the additional onion brioche (also super). 

Petit fours included a raspberry and cream macaron and very nicely textured salted fudge & butter bite that was just the right sweetness as well.  I was driving on this occasion so no drink which obviously helped with the bill, making it £64 for canapés, breads and great butter, two courses, petit fours, waters and service charge all in which, is comparably very good value for money at this level of cooking. Thoroughly recommended. 

Words from Cornus restaurant website:

“Cornus, a culinary gem in the heart of Belgravia, is the brainchild of the talented duo David O’Connor and Joe Mercer Nairne. Their vision is to create an unforgettable dining experience that marries exquisite cuisine with impeccable service, all within the refined elegance that the area is renowned for.

With a wealth of experience gleaned from some of London’s most prestigious restaurants. Head Chef Gary Foulkes has meticulously crafted a menu that celebrates the finest seasonal ingredients, showcasing his passion for innovative flavours and culinary artistry. 

David’s commitment to excellence extends beyond the plate, as he strives to provide a warm and welcoming atmosphere where every guest feels cherished.

At Cornus, every detail is thoughtfully curated to ensure a memorable visit, making it a standout destination for both locals and visitors seeking the pinnacle of dining in London.

For over twenty years, David O’Connor has been managing front of house teams at some of London’s most acclaimed fine dining restaurants, including The Square (**), The Ledbury (***) and Chez Bruce (*). In 2011, he set up Medlar alongside business partner Joe Mercer Nairne, a neighbourhood fine dining restaurant in Chelsea which has since become known for its immaculate service, excellent food and extensive wine list. In his spare time, O’Connor interviews fellow hospitality industry leaders on his podcast ‘Drive for Service’. Cornus is David’s second restaurant with Joe.

After spending his early years in Seattle, Joe was educated at Eton and then Oxford University, where he read Archaeology and Anthropology. He went on to attend Leith’s School of Food and Wine in 2001, and later worked in the kitchen at The Savoy Grill and Chez Bruce, as well as Neil Perry’s Rockpool in Sydney. In 2011, he set up the now much-loved Medlar with business partner David O’Connor. When not working in the kitchen, he spends his time with his wife and three young children in a village on the edge of the South Downs, near Winchester.

Wine director Melania Battiston, originally from Lombardy, comes back to Cornus after four years at Medlar and one year of international experience.

Melania’s goal at Cornus is to create one of the most exciting wine lists in the UK, driven by a wide variety and competitive prices. Moreover, she aims to establish a long-term, trusted relationship with our guests. Melania is a member of the IWSC and is a judge for Decanter Wine Awards as an international judge, alongside studying for her master sommelier exam.

Starting his career under the guidance of Gary Rhodes, Foulkes has worked with a long line of acclaimed chefs, including Philip Howard at The Square (**), John Campbell at The Vineyard at Stockcross (**), Richard Neat (**) and William Drabble at the Aubergine in Chelsea (*).

In 2016, he joined Angler as Executive Chef, achieving a Michelin star after 5 months through his unique and vibrant cookery style, drawing strong influence from his three years spent travelling across France, Southeast Asia, Japan, Central America and more recently South America. Foulkes currently lives in Central London with his wife and young son.

Our pastry chef, Kelly Cullen is one of the brightest young talents in the country. Since school, she studied at Westminster and her first fine dining job was with Gary at Angler, before gaining more experience at Claridge’s, Cornerstone and East London bakery before taking over at Allegra as Head Pastry chef. We are delighted that she has brought her talent to the opening team of Cornus. For Kelly, puddings should be “like a warm hug, just delicious! I like to make desserts that give you feelings of nostalgia with the addition of using best seasonal produce”.

Head chef Dew previously worked with Gary at Angler before joining him at Cornus as head chef. With a wealth of experience in top restaurants Dew was sous chef for many years for Anthony Demetre at Wild Honey whilst also having gained experience at The Square, Arbutus and L’Escargot. Described by Gary as “ a great guy and a great cook who I enjoy working with immensely ” Dew works closely with Gary and the team driving the food offering at Cornus. During his spare time he enjoys cricket, cycling and travelling”.