Modern cooking in an equally modern restaurant serving very good value for money Michelin starred food

At time of writing this is the only 1 Michelin starred restaurant in Cambridge and although I was surprised by the exterior location opposite a Travelodge hotel and leisure park complete with bowling alley and cinema, this was definitely a highly notable meal. It is in fact, the best value Michelin starred meal I have had from the whole collection with two courses at £19 for lunch on the set menu that included nibbles, an amuse bouche and a pre-dessert. As I have always maintained, these little, extra treats go a long way and do so because it heightens the feeling of the occasion.

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But did it taste good? Well, the squid ink crisps with smoked cod roe were better than expected and the fried cheese bites were always going to be a safe bet and were nice. I did have a slightly mixed experience with the bread. Both variants were beautifully warm to the touch and the sage bread was frankly divine, but strangely it had almost a teaspoon of flour at the bottom of the plate – very good confirmation of being freshly prepared, but strange for a Michelin starred restaruant to allow so much remaining on the plate when served.

The amuse bouche of pea sorbet and cheese with wonderfully subtle garlic was superb and the cauliflower velouté was pleasing enough, made all the better with the picked cauliflower with sheep’s cheese. The cod with caviar sauce was highly gratifying and it was lovely to have a pre-dessert however grapefruit is not my favourite and I had just a little bit too much zing from this attacking the corners of my mouth – interesting but not my favourite part of the meal.

The strawberry trifle was always going to be tried and thought was lovely, but with cream that was quite subtle and the bit which I was looking forward to the most (the custard) was set too hard for expectation and dashed my hopes of this dish. It was nice to have petit fours but, were not on the level as the salted caramel truffles at Tredwell’s for example. However, these were minor blemishes in an overall very good show.

Driving prevented any wine to be taken however, the bottom line is that this is an outstanding value for money option (set menu lunch) with a high quality yield. Bar a couple of elements, I was extremely pleased to have eaten here and walked away already planning in my mind when I could come back.

Food Grade: 82%