Grace & Savour (Hampton in Arden)

Grace and Savour gained its Michelin star in the 2022 guide, just one year after opening and provides a clean and well-judged menu using British produce.  The menus are naturally better value at lunch, for which ours was £90 per person for the 8 course lunch menu with a 15 course tasting menu also available for £155.  In the grand scheme of things, this actually represents good value for money when considering the surroundings, clear investment in the huge development cleverly bathed in light and overlooking a listed Walled Garden which holds its herbarium and vegetable garden. 

There is counter dining available as well as private dining areas, with the normal tables directly overlooking the garden, along with a very comfortable and large bar area to enjoy some surprisingly good Cava at a reasonable price for aperitifs.  This was a good to see as a recommended option without the obligatory, overpriced and narrow selection of champagnes only.  There is a large, open kitchen for all to see on entering (where the counter dining is) and the husband and wife team (David and Anette) along with the staff make you feel very welcome from the off.

Head chef David began by introducing himself to all the tables and chatting with all in his rounds and I was most impressed by how genuinely welcoming (and seemingly rare) this was.  Our meal began with canapés of thin crackers with goat’s cheese and herbs.  The herbs and flower decoration were as fresh as they come and ultimately an agreeable beginning albeit in its relatively unexciting format.  The first course however, of good quality asparagus were served with one of the best hollandaise sauces I have ever had – a glorious hollandaise with miso, perfectly balanced in acidity, umami with a touch of sweetness and expertly beaten to just the right level of egg white ‘frothiness’ to feel slightly lighter in the mouth.  This was a master lesson for making a simple asparagus dish sing and there was no issue in spooning all remaining sauce away, long after the asparagus was dealt with.

Agnolotti pasta with chicken, cheese and garlic was next which I have to say was another belter.  Small in size but big on flavour, perfectly seasoned with good quality chicken, lovely chicken skin bits for texture and another cracker of a creamed sauce to accompany.  The trend of wonderful sauces continued with the Skate wing (from Plymouth), with droplets of herb oil and fresh sea vegetables including salty fingers for texture and seasoning.  I enjoyed this naturally, even if the dish was perhaps not the most innovative of fish courses. 

The home made sour dough, served beautifully warm and with an extremely good crust came with a superb, home whipped butter as the star of that show.  The beef fillet from Pembrokeshire was absolutely succulent and perfectly cooked.  One could almost cut this with a fork and the reduction to accompany was a quality jus, livened up with mustard seeds, but as an overall dish sat in the simple, pleasurable domain again.

The pre-dessert of honey-glazed ice cream and fruit sponge was a pleasing start of sweet richness with the main tart dessert being beautifully presented with fresh herb flowers and a magnificent custard within the thicker, biscuit-based case of the tart.  Almost a play on a cheesecake, this was very good on the eyes as a finalé and concluded just the right amount overall to finish feeling perfectly sated at the end of this smaller, tasting menu.  Therefore, a very well portioned sized and worked out menu for overall filling.

There’s no doubt this was an enjoyable meal with a good accompanying wine list, utterly friendly staff and a convivial atmosphere as I recall it was very well in the Manor House as well on my first visit here many moons ago now.  The meal itself was a mix of explosive parts and general offerings that were lesser in fireworks in today’s world, but pleasurable nevertheless.

The next on my hit list is the more casual restaurant in the other garden area of the estate called Smoke, headed by the winner of The Masterchef Professionals (2019), Stuart Deeley cooks over coals.  It will be a pleasure to revisit this hotel in general which I heartily recommend, especially as a whole stay over and reliable cooking having now seen the whole operation – for foodies, this would make a very good weekend stay and escape from it all indeed.

Food Grade: 76%