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Viajante (Bethnal Green)

14th August 2011 by Richard Bagnold Leave a Comment

RIP - CLOSED AS AT 2014

  • 11th August 2011
  • 25th February 2011

This was quite a weekend where three michelin starred restaruants were done on one weekend and this was the final of three.  As above with the first vsists there were real moments of class and technical skill (most notably the butter and prawn & bread sauce dish) in an otherwise very pleasant meal.  I wouldn’t say it was at the top of the Michelin starred game – certainly innovative, fresh and with clear, technical skill all deserving of its 1 Michelin star at the time, but with subdued numbers not quite strong enough to make it in to the greatest hits album.   Very good, nonetheless.

Food Grade: 76%

Thai canapés
Tuna with tuna jelly amuse bouche
Mini-roasted potatoes
Breads
Caramel butter
Pistachio nut butter
Pesto and cheese
Prawn and bread sauce
Cod Roe (1)
Cod Roe (2)
Langoustine (1)
Langoustine (2)
Lamb (1)
Lamb (2)
Beef
Lime iced pre-dessert
Pre-dessert (2)
Strawberry essence dessert

A great shame that this has closed as it was an entirely fun change of scene in an Eastend world by El Bulli trained chef, Nuno Mendes.  The old converted Town Hall (which has now been turned in to, yes you’ve guessed it – swish property) was converted in to a delightful option with bar on one side, stylish and relaxed, open-view kitchen on the other side complete with fireplace, almost as if one was in someone else’s home.

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There were too many dishes to mention on my visits and it is now closed so there is not much point in going in to detail, but whilst it had its existence here, the number of clever additions in to even their smallest menu, turned the event in to something of a gastronomic tour de force including a wonderful caramelised butter, simple use of really excellent ingredients (perfectly roasted mini potatoes with mushroom ketchup as an example) and highly original dishes for London such as the slow-cooked egg (at 40 degrees centigrade for eactly 50 minutes causing it to be almost brûlée like in texture with the surrounding fennel, bread sauce and prawns.  Some dishes such as cod roe and the tuna jelly were pushing it a little for my palate, but on the whole the food simmered in the good bracket with flashes of an ace serve.

A lovely place that came, got it’s Michelin star immediately, and then sadly departed.  Thankfully, Nuno Mendes continues his spoils in his new establishment of Chiltern Firehouse which I can confirm is a lovely find in all senses.

Food Grade: 73%

Bread (1)
Bread (2)
Parsnip variation
Duck
Lime pre-dessert
Cream cheese dessert
Petit fours (1)
Final custard petit four

Location

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  • Food Rating - 74%
    74

Summary

Breezy style of restaurant.
Innovative and original courses.
Extras.

Closed.

Restaurant Details

Permanently closed

Michelin Stars:

Cuisine: Portugese

Address: Was: Patriot Square Bethnal Green London E2 9NF

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About Me

meMy hobby-turned-passion began to evolve during my assignments to London where I was fortunate enough to be able to explore all the Michelin starred restaurants in my spare time and as a result, I gradually built up a catalogue of all these venues.

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