Simple cooking done very well from the excellent Stephen Terry

This 17th century Inn has been run by chef Stephen Terry since 2005. Stephen Terry has made numerous TV appearances on Saturday Kitchen and the Great British Menu in recent times, but prior to this he received his culinary experience in 2 Michelin starred Le Gavroche and 3 Michelin starred Arpege. This was a fulsome meal of simple dishes that were skillfully chosen and cooked. There really is not much to not like in this restaurant and is another cracking option to have if you are in the area of Abergavenny.

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Panzanella salad with heritage tomatoes, tardivo, and grilled homewood halloumi was a simple and decent combination with the halloumi holding good flavour. My Severn and Wye smoked salmon, deep-fried avocado, char-grilled lemon, pickled cucumber and creme fraiche was a lovely collection of complementary flavours; the salmon itself being good quality and lovely to be cooked on one side only with contrasting textures and temperature.

Wye Valley asparagus, Jersey Royals, poached egg with Grana Padano and fried ham hock was Spring on a plate and the salt from the ham hock providing very nice seasoning to the egg and vegetables. Duck hash, fried duck egg and orange dressing was a lovely play on a very well known combination. Breadcrumbed free-range chicken breast on seasonal greens with a fried egg and wild garlic salsa worked really well and the deep-fried breast itself being satisfying.

Skate wing served on the bone with Wye Valley barba di fratti, spru asparagus, sea kale and brown butter, caper, parsley and lemon sauce was another super dish and summed up how I view the food here: the dishes are simply designed to satisfy with good ingredients that just all work together well. This is a very good restaurant – lucky Wales.

Food Grade: 79%