One of three Michelin starred restaurants in Jersey and part of The Club Hotel and Spa serving carefully delivered tasting menus
My last Michelin starred meal of three on the island of Jersey (as at 2017) and perhaps the most impressive on reflection. This was technically the most superior of the three from my lens although I acknowledge I’m putting that against a set lunch menu and an a la carte from the other two, my nose is saying that this is so, based on all impressions. Bohemia was a delicate meal with obvious care going in to the experience from the staff present as well. Its trump card was its refined approach which will always cause a smile and thankfully the flavours kept this smile going throughout the meal. I wouldn’t say it caused explosive happiness in flavour but it was evident I was in skilled hands on this visit, which revealed a restaurant with an great bar area and the sort of place one will gain definite browny points if you take your other half to, for a seductive or celebratory meal.
Nibbles took the form of a horseradish panna cotta with beetroot foam which was a significantly welcome start – there was gentle heat from the horseradish and along with the dill and the crunch from the sour dough crisps, this was a wonderful advert for the meal as an amuse bouche. Then a cheese pastry with mushroom puree and chive filling came that was absolutely wonderful. You know you are in good hands when this, along with warmed breads (brown, white and walnut & raisin) are served with perfectly malleable seaweed and salted butter. The breads themselves were very good (warmed and fluffy with a nice balance) and even the seaweed butter, was good and this is not normally my favourite.
The opening pea, mint and slow-cooked egg with ham had the perfect saltiness provided from the ham and was skillfully done, served with a very clean-cut Chardonnay Chablis 2015. This was followed by crab & tuna with sour dough, strawberry gazpacho, crab gel and coriander. I thought all these worked well together with a lovely, light crunch from the sour dough. Although the foie gras cream felt more like pressed, cold foie gras, it was made far more interesting with the lovely, sweet kumquat gel. This was good.
Next up was the turbot with heritage carrot and this was superb – perfectly cooked and pleasant turbot with a powerpunch of carrot puree to accompany. The dish didn’t send me to heaven but it was a fair distance towards in how light the touch was with this obvious, centre-piece dish.
On to the sweets and the calamansi (citrus) with white chocolate mousse was crisp, sharp and certainly refreshing but being picky here, I didn’t find there was enough of the white chocolate to soften the onslaught of the acids on this one. A very good wake up call and palate cleanser at that, but just a little strong for my receptors. Then came a tiramisu dessert with espresso sorbet which came together beautifully. Decadent and very well done petit fours were presented at the bar area over coffee and I have to say I thought the chai tea petit four, which I haven’t had before, was absolutely outstanding.
Overall there was no doubt in my mind that this was the gastronomic lead of the three Michelin starred eateries on Jersey (that is not to say the other two are deficient, but in my view Bohemia simply comes out on top) and although not every moment created explosions, I was very happy with this meal. I wasn’t expecting it, but this turned out to be a press review, and although this is gracious of the management, as always, I have graded this exactly as I would have, had the approx. £110 appeared on my card.
Food Grade: 82%
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