Alleyway branch of Dishoom in the Carnaby St area serving the same winning formula dishes as with all Dishooms
I’m pleased to be able to write that this revisit to Dishoom Kingly Street was a total change from the first visit experienced. On arrival this time all the greeters at the desk were alert, smiling and on completely on point and was frankly a transformation from the first visit which seemed to be shrouded in lethargy. The atmosphere was very different (probably owing to Saturday breakfasts being far more of an event) and I was actually unaware just how big this Dishoom is. I should have guessed as all Dishooms seem to have vast interiors and I thought I was being taken to the very back out of anyone’s view for being the problem child, but in fact I was taken back to what I think is possibly the nicest part of the restaurant under a glass roof with a mock-fireplace giving a lovely feel of a conservatory.
Moreover, all the food was completely on point on this visit as well. The all important bacon naan was beautifully floppy in its feel with freshly cooked and juicy bacon – exactly how it is at its best and was a return to the delight of when first experienced in Covent Garden. I had to try other elements whilst back and wanted to give the hot livers a go as I so love these in paté, parfait or foie gras formats. These were fried in their whole form, cut in to smaller pieces which I actually found out is not my favourite, but they were not tough and I liked the fact that the spicy sauce they came with was not over the top. The sausage was good but I would say that the breakfast sausage at Tredwell’s pips that one on its meatier texture and slightly stronger sense of herbs.
However, I thought the signature porridge was absolutely superb – a very subtle hint of savoury warmth and with wonderful dates on the top made this very good indeed. You also get unlimited refills with this dish(!) but frankly the size of the bowl it is served in combined with how filling it is means it’s unlikely you will probably need this, but great to know if you are on the brink of starvation. The sides of bacon were a thing of beauty on their own and the wonderfully proportioned fat within these streaks produced / produces a glorious flavour.
I’m not sure why it was so below par on my first visit had recently – perhaps this is usual for early in the week, or maybe no one enjoys working in the morning, especially early in the week(?). However, that obviously doesn’t wash when providing a service, whoever your customer base is, but everyone will have off days. The bottom line is this was a totally different experience on this occasion from the first – attentive staff, a happy atmosphere, with smiles everywhere (guests and hosts) and the food was lovely. A-grade, and this is the Dishoom I have seen before. Amazing how different any place is when it performs at its peak and I hope to catch Dishoom whenever it is in this mode – when it is, it is without a shadow of doubt, one of the very best places in London for breakfast and a unique experience in general. My thanks to the team for the warm hospitality on Saturday 13 Feb am – a very lovely start to any weekend.
Food Grade: 78%
My fourth and final Dishoom is now done and perfect timing on a day off to get some breakfast. As I’ve only had the bacon naan once and was a total triumph, I had to opt for this again. So, zero out of ten for imagination on my part but I’m afraid when it’s that good it’s not even a question for a second go.
Regrettably I was completely disheartened to have one served that had hard, crispy naan and bacon that was not only tough but also only warm, as if it had been under a hot plate for a fair while. My heart was almost shattered as this meant the kitchen were happy serving this, a long cry from the soft, floppy naan and juicy, hot bacon version I had at the Covent Garden Dishoom over the Christmas holiday.
It was and is still an amazing combination and option for breakfast in general, but unfortunately it summed up the experience today along with the staff who were in general pleasant but just appeared half asleep and only just interested in the service.It won’t stop me going back as it is still an awesome menu in London – this was disappointing though and lowered the bar. I would still recommend the group wholeheartedly – hopefully you will get them on a good day.
Food Grade: 51%
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