Higher-end restaurant with rooms (not pub) with classic cooking from long-standing Frances Atkins - a very safe bet all round
Editor's note: The Yorke Arms is now closed as a general restaurant and is open for private hire only as of June 2020 owing to the impact of COVID-19.
Editor’s note: review conducted at time of holding a Michelin star – venue subsequently demoted in the 2020 Michelin guide.
The Yoke Arms dominates a small village green within Pately Bridge and has a country-grand feel on the inside and outside. This is softended by the very caring service and I had a warming experience here. Flavours were judged well with little treats here and there that raised a smile and it was frankly a very nice to be. Frances Atkins even kindly gave time to have a chat and once again was a genuine pleasure to meet the architect. Thr turbot was definitely the king of this meal as well as its own ocean and the environment is utterly perfect for couples getting away for the weekend or anyone wanting to have a an upscaled Sunday lunch or evening meal.
The dining room itself is split in to two areas with the main dining area presenting a fine antler chandelier and fire place at the far end which sums up the country grandeur of The Yorke Arms. Snacks at the table of sugar glazed nuts and cheese pastry straw were simple and pleasing and the amuse bouche of bergamot is simply not something I enjoy – I’ve always found anything resembling marmalade difficult to handle but the textures were good and it was very nicely presented. The bread selection was actually quite impressive with five different kinds, all freshly warmed to the touch and a clearly well done salted butter – these are the tale-tale signs of attention to detail and frankly it was nice to have the basic things such as really good olive oil to dip the bread in to. Simples.
The Artichoke salad had clever variations and came with a very good purée but I found the acid from apple cubes and overall sour notes quite strong, but a healthy dish with good textural crunch in the mix. However, all was utterly restored to life with the sensational linguine and truffle combination with turbot. Not only was the turbot nothing short of imaccualte in careful handling, succulence and juicy flavour, the seafood linguine with subtle truffle handling was perhaps the best I have ever had and that includes in any Italian eatery. This was a marvellous main course and I was practically flying after that.
Sadly time was against me so I coudn’t stay for dessert however, the petit fours with coffee in the lounge by the fire was not a bad compromise to settle up the bill. This was all finished with the icing that was a chat with Frances Atkins who was a genuine pleasure to speak to and was gracious enough to afford some time. Overall this was classic cooking in a warm and alluring venue and would cater very well for just about anyone who wanted to be in good hands for the day or night.
Food Grade: 74%
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