Entirely homely pub within Devon serving well done, Michelin starred food designed to please
This was definitely a lovely supper. Set in the little hamlet of Sparkwell you will definitely wheels and a designated driver. Looking at the exterior you would not think of anything in particular, but these are actually the sorts of places I like the most as, with the The Sportsman, usually the most understated have the most to offer underneath the surface. The interior was cosy and it was a very comfortable environment to dine in with only a handful of tables and very homely service. Hearty and overall decent food here.
The blackpudding scotch egg was a delight and on seeing was practically a given before even looking at the rest of the menu. I have found this take on scotch egg to be quite heavy on occasion, but I was pleased how this one turned out as it was actually much lighter and with the lower size using a quail egg was far more doable and frankly it was the perfect self-made amuse bouche. The bread as well was utterly lovely – perfectly warmed and the brie and blackcurrent focaccia in particular was superb along with the pleasing lemon and cajun butter.
As I had heard quite a bit from my friend about Treby Arms and I am not sure when I will be able to hit it again we decided to go for it large with two starters each and frankly, sometimes I actually prefer starters in general to the mains. All of them were great – the crab with cucumber consommé was very fresh, the ham hock with pineapple was a fun take on a classic combination, the mackerel was beautifully done but I was aching for more of the wonderful dill mayonnaise and at the top of the tree was the glazed pork cheek. The latter was beautifully succulent, the cider foam delightful and the celeriac fondou was sumptuous and brought the whole dish together – really gorgeous.
We were steered to try the venison as Anton’s winning Masterchef dish and this certainly was very well done and pleasing. I opted for the pork crackling coated turbot and again this was a well done dish – maybe it was own fault as I had in my head supreme expectations as I adore pork crackling and had such excitement in waiting but probably over hyped it as the flavour gave me a luke warm feeling of happiness but not being bowled over. The tripple cooked chips on the side were superbly done and the home made mayonnaise was a treat to have. The condensed milk ice cream, banana foam, chocolate and peanut dessert as well, was utterly superb. A novel and pleasant presentation in an old M & S container afforded the petit fours which were, on the whole fine.
I was very pleased to have gone to The Treby Arms and is certainly a cosy and warm option to have travelling through Devon. Although I can’t say I had any real firework moments, the craftsmanship was definitely refined and there was obvious care and attention that went in to all the dishes. A very satisfying visit.
Food Grade: 74%
Location (Click google logo for directions)